Tag: Mazamas

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Meet The Mazamas

We are launching an occasional Friday feature. We’re just getting started, but we hope y’all want to learn more about the Mazamas. If you are a member and wish to participate, the questions will remain the same, so drop your responses and a photo of yourself in an email to ginabinole@mazamas.org

We’re kicking things off with Ali Koch, co-founder & director of adventure for Peak Recovery , which through the Alano Club of Portland has partnered with the Mazamas and is sponsoring a nine-member Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) team this year.

Name: Ali Marie Koch

Year Joined Mazamas: 2015

Present-day outdoor activities: splitboarding, mountaineering, snowboarding, hiking, snowshoeing, outdoor yoga

What’s your earliest outdoor memory (can be anything—iceskating, hiking, sledding, biking, fishing, fort building): My mom teaching me to ski on Mickey Mouse skis at the age of 3 in Lake Tahoe and playing in tide pools near our home in San Francisco.

How did you first hear about the Mazamas, and what prompted you to engage with the organization? My mom did BCEP in 2008 and joined the Mazamas. She then started climbing all kinds of mountains with Mazamas and eventually started volunteering as a hike leader. She’s the one who encouraged  me to start hiking to suppport my mental and physical wellness. She took me up my first glaciated summit in 2015.

As more people seek to recreate outdoors, what advice would you offer them? Find an outdoor mentor (or a few) and ask them to show you the ropes. In addition to my mom, my dear friend and fellow Mazama, John Creager, has been an amazing mentor to me!

What activities/situations/people most inspire you? Pick one. I am inspired by people who remain humble as they accomplish amazing feats. I am also inspired by other people in mental health or substance use recovery who use nature and movement as medicine.

What is your favorite book/movie/TV show/social media account that you follow and why? IG @mountainsformentalhealth an account run by a therapist who climbs mountains to raise awareness around mental health and suicide prevention

What’s on your adventure bucket list? I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro in 2019, and I hope to climb Aconcagua, the tallest peak in South America soon. #1 on my bucket list is Vinson Massif, the tallest mountain in Antarctica.

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CISM Team in Nepal

Dudh Koshi River – Ama Dablam in view.

Mazamas Travel to the Khumbu Region to Provide Support to Sherpas Affected by the Everest Tragedy 

Marina Wynton Sat down for an interview after the Critical Incident Stress Management trip to Nepal to share her story.

Note: The CISM team decided to regard all “debriefings” in Nepal with the same ethics as any other.  All meetings are strictly confidential and no notes are taken. This report mentions several names, but not details of each case.

How did this trip come together? 

Last spring Conrad Anker and Lee Davis were talking by phone about the tragic deaths of 16 Sherpa guides in the April avalanche on Mt. Everest. Conrad talked about how the families of those who died were affected: grieving from the loss of husbands, future husbands, fathers, uncles, brothers, cousins, friends. Lee mentioned that when traumatic events occur in outdoor activities Mazama members can work with the Critical Incident Stress Management team to sort through the incident and trauma that may have occurred. Conrad wondered if the Mazamas could send someone to Nepal to offer emotional support to the families.

 An elderly Sherpa woman in Lukla.

What was the purpose/goal of this trip?

The purpose of the trip was to provide emotional support to families of the deceased. We were very aware that Nepalese people experience and manage grief and the loss of a loved one in a very different way than we do. In preparation we met with many local (Portland) Sherpa people several times who were invaluable in working with us to help us understand the Sherpa culture, what issues people were facing and the state of mountaineering in Nepal from the Sherpa perspective. We went to Nepal with the intent to provide an opportunity for people to tell us their stories, and to listen well and offer support in ways that would work for them. Bob Peirce, a former trekking guide in Nepal, was also very helpful to us and supportive of our efforts.

Who was a part of the CISM Team? 

Mazama CISM team members were Katie Foehl, Drew Prochniak (licensed psychologist) and Marina Wynton. Mike Pajunas, invited by Jenni Anker to work on the Khumbu Climbing Center under construction in Phortse, also accompanied the team. Jiban Ghimire, owner of Shangri-La Nepal
developed our itinerary in Nepal and was an essential component in the success of the trip and helping us through logistics. We traveled with two Nepali guides, Karki and Kami, and two porters, Depok and Lhakpha. Our guides really made the trip happen for us, taking care of all kinds of logistics, medical problems, arranging lodging, locating families, and translating. Chhongba Sherpa, a good friend of Jenni’s, acted as a translator and also helped to spread the word in the Khumbu region of our arrival and nature of our visit. Dave Morton, Alpine Ascents guide and Juniper Fund founder, also helped with preparing the families for our visits.

Phortse – Khumbu Climbing Center in construction.

When did this trip take place? 

We arrived in Katmandu on Oct. 25 and spent a few days there before flying on to Lukla to begin trekking on Oct 27. Mike and I returned to Katmandu on Nov. 13 and were back in Portland on Nov. 18.

What route did you take? 

From Katmandu we flew to Lukla, and from there we began trekking. Our route was: Lukla to Phakding to Namche Bazar to Thamo to Thame to Thamo to Khumjung to Phortse to Dingboche (Tengboche Monestary) to Pangboche to Namche Bazar to Phadking to Lukla to Katmandu.

Our first meeting was in Katmandu with several family members. Chhongba Sherpa translated. We started the trek in the Khumbu from Lukla, arriving in Phakding the first day and Namche Bazar the second day. There Drew and I met with four women whose husbands died on Everest. Sherap Jangbu Sherpa, owner of the Panorama Lodge translated. The day after Mike departed for Phortse while Katie, Drew and I went in the opposite direction to Thamo. In Thamo we met with Ang Riku the wife of the cook who died on Everest. Ang Riku runs a teahouse in Thamo and gave us a delicious meal of Sherpa stew and lemon tea. Our next stop that day was Thame.

Namche Bazar, Drew & guide Karki.

Two women traveled some miles to meet us in Thame to share their stories. We also visited the school in Thame and left crayons and toothbrushes with the teachers, and children’s books in the Magic Yeti Library.

Up to this point Katie had been struggling with a cold and in Thame become so ill that we made the decision to send her back to Katmandu. Drew and I went on with one guide and one porter back through Thamo.

When we arrived in Thamo, Ang Riku was holding a puja ceremony in her tea house to honor her husband. Llamas perform the all day ceremony chanting, praying, meditating, drumming and blowing horns. After lunch there, we traveled on to Khumjung, the location of an airport, hospital and a private high school.

So far the weather in the Khumbu had been brilliant—sunshine, very clear and cold—with gorgeous mountain, river and valley views, and beautiful sunsets. As we descended into Khumjung the weather changed quickly to very foggy and cold.

We left early the next morning for Phortse. Phortse is a very, small remote farming village with especially beautiful views of Cho Oyu, and Khumbi Yul Lha Mts. The Khumbu Climbing School is held here every year with the support of two lodges adjacent to the building site. The lodges have donated the land for the climbing school in construction. Drew left the next day to return to Katmandu and then travel to Iceland. Mike had a few more days of work on the building to complete, so I busied myself with walks around the village to the monestary, the school library, and through the yak grazing fields; doing laundry, catching up on reading and writing.

Suspension bridge.

The group was now down to Mike and I and our guide, Karki and porter, Depok. Our next destination was to attend the Mani Rimdu festival at Tengboche Monastary.

We spent two nights in Dingboche, a small village along a river a short walk away from the monastary. We then moved on to Pangboche where Karki, acting as translator, and I, met with two women on the back porch of our teahouse. Ama Dablam base camp is a three-hour walk from Pangboche, so we saw many trekkers coming and going. The view of Ama Dablam from Pangboche is spectacular, especially in the evening alpenglow.

From Pangboche we started our return trek with stops in Namche Bazar, Phadking, Lukla and back to Katmandu.

What was the reality of the trip vs. the intended purpose?

By the time we arrived to visit with most people, Dave Morton from The Juniper Fund had already visited. (See the Juniper Fund website for a detailed description of their work). The Juniper Fund provides monetary support to each family that will continue for the next four years. So when we arrived the families had received the first payment. We were able to work off that saying that we were friends of Dave’s and want to see how you are doing. Everyone was very thankful to have an opportunity to talk with us. And so grateful that we had traveled so far to support them. The intention was to see how we could help people and then try to do that.

Mike & Lhakpa Dorji, Phortse.

What did you take away from this experience?

It’s hard to adequately describe what we took away from this experience. A few thoughts:

  • The Sherpa are a strong and beautiful people. 
  • Tourism is quickly eroding the culture and the environment.
  • As a result of the exposure to western culture, people are giving up on an ancient way of life. 
  • Mountaineering in Nepal is devastating the male population and contributing to the erosion of the culture.
  • The Nepali government is in extreme disarray and is not advocating for the Nepali people. 

On the flip side of the equation: ethical tourism, ethical mountaineering could shine a light on the issues and that this create positive changes.

I think the more eyes on all these problems means more exposure of the problems and can contribute to positive changes.

One of the best ways we can support the Sherpa people in the Khumbu is to support their communities, schools, monasteries and medical facilities.

Mongla, 13,500 ft. Marina & Drew

Do you feel the Mazamas met the intended purpose of the trip?

Very much. We were able to provide direct support to the all the people we intended and more. Sherpa deaths will continue. We have begun an important effort that we hope to continue and evolve as we get to know them better.

One important thing to note is that many people and organizations came together to make this effort, this trip, happen. We all share a common goal to improve life for the Nepali people in the Khumbu. I’m hopeful that we will continue to work together.

Overall, do you feel as though this trip was valuable? To whom?

From my perspective everyone involved has benefited. We are so fortunate to be in a position to offer aide to the Sherpa. I would love to hear how each person involved would answer that question.

Personally, I am so honored that I was able to sit with people and hear their stories; it was very moving. What a simple and humane thing it is to sit and listen and be present for another person. This cuts across all cultural divisions. I arrived home with a deep sense of gratitude for my life, my family and friends and my freedom. And ready to get busy with figuring out what’s next.

Thank you!

The CISM Committee and the Mazamas would like to thank the many wonderful sponsors and donors that help make this trip possible. Thanks go to:

  • Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation
  • Lhakpa Gelu Foundation
  • CAMP
  • Cassin
  • Mountain Hardwear
  • Base Camp Brewing Company
  • Columbia Sportswear
  • The Mountain Shop
  • Mazama Members
  • Petzl
  • Sterling Rope
  • Karma Cafe & Coffee Shop
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Mt. Huntington in Winter

Brad Farra belays a pitch of mixed climbing during the first day before accessing the ridge proper.  Photo: Jason Stuckey
Mazama members John Frieh and Brad Farra, along with Jason Stuckey, tackled Mt. Huntington’s Northwest Ridge in the Alaska Range in early March. This climb marks the first winter ascent of this route and only the third winter ascent of Mt. Huntington ever.
News of this climb was quickly picked up by some of the major climbing magazines, including Alpinist and Climbing. Read Brad’s first hand account below.
First Winter Ascent: Mt. Huntington’s French (NW Ridge), by Brad Farra

Finally, we gained the ridge at just over 10,000 feet after spending most of the day wallowing in deep snow on the slopes above the Tokositna glacier. As we considered our route on the ridge beyond, we realized what a committing route we were attempting and decided to bivouac. It was probable that we would not be able to reach another bivvy point before it became dark. 
Jason Stuckey and Brad Farra ready
for their flight to the Tokositna Glacier
with Talkeetna Air Taxi. Photo: John Frieh
That morning, Saturday, March 1, we met with our pilot, Paul of Talketa Air Taxi, at about 10 a.m. and left shortly thereafter for the Tokositna Glacier. Our intentions were to climb light and fast in an alpine style for our attempt of the French (NW) Ridge of Mt. Huntington (12,240 feet), which lies in the central range of Alaska. Before our departure from Talketna we discussed, “How many pickets and ice screws? Do we want snow shoes? How much stove fuel? How much webbing would we need for the rappel down the West Face Couloir?” We speculated about the condition of the ridge based on the last two weeks’ weather reports. Decisions were made and weight was distributed across team members, John Frieh and I from Portland, and Jason Stuckey of Fairbanks, Alaska.
Mt. Huntington had seen two previous winter ascents, both via the West Face Couloir; 2011 by Frieh and Stuckey and first by Haley and Brown in 2007. John and Jason’s familiarity with our descent route would prove helpful in getting us down quickly without route finding difficulty.
Our chosen route up the mountain was first done in May of 1964, in expedition style by the great French alpinist Lionel Terray and a team of eight. There is no easy line up Mt. Huntington and the ephemeral nature of the French ridge has not allowed for many ascents over the years.
Paul dropped us off on the Tokositna glacier at 11 a.m. on Saturday, March 1. We immediately began climbing from the cirque below the West face. Ascending to the ridge proper was slow and arduous. We had underestimated what it would take to gain the ridge. Most of the first day of climbing was shin to chest deep powder. We sought out sections of mixed climbing up to M5 just to avoid the strenuous snow plowing, which felt a like digging a trench at times. An occasional step or two of ice was nothing more than a tease.
Photo: Bob Butterfield
We were on the move again by 8 a.m. on Sunday morning and making our way up the ridge. The ridge proper was absolutely beautiful. An Alaska sized ridgeline with large cornices, steep snow and ice steps, and traversing slopes steeper than 50-degrees at times. We alternated between simul-climbing and belaying a few of the more technical pitches. We moved at a solid pace and worked well together, but the ridge was long and the day was cold, very cold. John climbed in all the clothing he had and still did not overheat while on the move. The simul-climbing was helpful to keep us moving and generating heat. The sun began to get close to the horizon, which was a stunning jagged skyline consisting of Mt. Hunter and Denali. As the afternoon wore on, we realized that we would not reach the summit before dark. 
We decided that the climbing and route finding would allow us to continue to travel in the dark. Headlamps were removed from warm pockets and placed on helmets. Temperatures dropped as the sun set, but we continued climbing for hours. The theme of the day was the statement, repeated multiple times, ‘it’s not as hard as it looks’. Again and again, we approached and climbed multiple vertical ‘looking’ pitches, which turned out to be less steep than their appearance from a distance. 
John Frieh
There were several pitches of grade 3-4 ice with small bulges of vertical or overhanging snow to overcome to get to the slope above. It was classic alpine climbing. No one had cleaned the snow off the top of these pitches for us and good technique was needed to transition from the steep ice to snow. 
We climbed on into the dark night for hours. It was dark, really dark. Unlike spring in the Alaska range that allows you to almost forego the headlamp completely, we could not even completely make out the ridgeline ahead. 
Just after 11 p.m. we approached another steep looking pitch that we thought would give us access to the summit ridge. We decided to belay this one, as it had a sizeable looking overhanging bulge at the top. I approached the steep ice on lead and quickly realized this one was just as steep as it looked. About 15 feet from the top of this 30 foot vertical section of ice with an overhanging snow bulge above, my headlamp gave a flicker or two and then went completely out. After a few expletives, one very loud one in particular, I had the undivided attention of John and Jason. They quickly realized what I was worked up about and cranked up the power on their headlamps and shined them on the face I was climbing. This was critical and gave me enough light to choose the best path to the bulge.
Brad Farra and Jason Stuckey on the slopes above the
Tokositna Glacier before on the ridge. Photo: John Frieh.

While swinging the tools through the eternally long dark seconds that it took John and Jason to light up the face, I realized it’s possible to climb ice quite well without light. Ice climbers rely on the way a swing into the ice feels and sounds more than what the ice looks like. Here the ice wasn’t good everywhere I swung; there were often patches of snow and bad ice on this vertical face. I had just placed an ice screw that I felt wasn’t worth the time I took to place it. 

The light from the headlamps below allowed me to choose the best tool placements with minimal swinging. I reached the overhanging snow at the top and realized that this was the crux of the entire ridge. At 12,000 feet of altitude and nearly 16 hours of straight climbing, I was a bit fatigued. I relied on my feet to push up into the snow bulge and get a tool over the top. While the light from John and Jason helped with the face, it did nothing for me once my tools were over the top. 
It was snow on top, but I went by feel and got some solid placements to move my feet up and over. I used the light on my cell phone to build an anchor and belayed John and Jason onto the summit ridge. With my headlamp dead, Jason led us to the summit and I climbed next to John. It was nearly midnight and we made camp just below the summit. We were all exhausted, especially John. 
John had been suffering from a cold virus and a cough all day long. Throughout the day he displayed an amazing level of determination on this very committing route. One of the most amazing displays of mental muscle I have seen. As Jason cranked up the stove, I stomped out a tent platform. Hot water bottles and a hot meal provided some warmth to the frigid night. We crammed into the two man tent for the second night in a row and tried to stay warm for some much needed rest. 
We got going at about 8:30 a.m. on Monday morning and had a fairly uneventful descent down the west face couloir. About 12 rappels, using V-threads and rock anchors, and some down climbing took us to the glacier just above the landing strip that Paul had dropped us on just 50 hours earlier. We roped up for a short section of glacier travel, in preparation to pass the bergschrund and several large crevasses before reaching the flat portion of the Tokositna glacier. Jason led us down and we put the big guy in the back as a nice moveable anchor, a service John had expertly provided the day prior during our travel along the ridge. 
We passed the bergschrund and approached some large crevasses just above the flat glacier. I followed Jason’s steps across several obvious snow bridges that made themselves clear by creating depressions in the snow. As I stepped out on one, it broke. My left foot broke through as my right foot remained on the lip behind. I fell on to the front lip of the crevasse with my forearms holding me up. I quickly put my left foot on the crevasse lip with my right foot and I bridged the gap from feet to forearms in a plank like position. As I peered into an extremely large crevasse, hundreds of feet deep and more than 50 feet wide below me, I thought to myself that it was probably a good thing that I did all of those planks in training and that I should start doing them with a 35-pound pack on my back.
I told Jason, who was 40 feet down slope, to pull tension on the rope and I carefully allowed my feet to come off the back lip of the crevasse to hang below me. A bit of a mantle and I put one foot up and rolled out of the gaper without a scratch. John thanked me for showing him the weak snow bridge as he leaped across the opening. 
At last, we walked across the Tokositna for pickup from Talkeetna Air Taxi. About 54 total hours in the range and a first winter ascent of an absolutely stunning ridge line on one of the most spectacular peaks in Alaska. As John likes to say, “Long live the three-day weekend.”
Brad Farra was introduced to climbing while in high school. His brother dragged him up his first rock route. In 2001 Brad got more serious about climbing and started mountaineering. He was heading to the crags around the Northwest and getting in the mountains whenever he could. He added ice climbing to the mix when he realized he needed more of these skills for the harder routes he wanted to do in the mountains. In 2008 Brad took ASI and in 2009 took AR. These classes helped his rope handling, gear, and anchor knowledge base. Brad continues to find ways to improve his climbing skills and conditioning. His future goals include difficult routes that involve steep snow, ice, rock, and mixed climbing.