by Jon Skeen
Sustained 60 mph winds,
unending clouds, and ultimately having to descend after a forced rest day left
a bad taste in our mouths. We had been blown off the Kautz Glacier on Rainier and now we had unfinished business with the mountain. Clearing skies and calming
winds taunted us as we neared the parking lot. The team was in good spirits and
happy to settle for brunch as consolation, but already the need to go back was
creeping into our thoughts.
unending clouds, and ultimately having to descend after a forced rest day left
a bad taste in our mouths. We had been blown off the Kautz Glacier on Rainier and now we had unfinished business with the mountain. Clearing skies and calming
winds taunted us as we neared the parking lot. The team was in good spirits and
happy to settle for brunch as consolation, but already the need to go back was
creeping into our thoughts.
The itch was not soothed
by forecasts of blue skies and calm winds the following weekend. Fewer than 48
hours after being thoroughly shut down, we were planning a reattempt. Glenn Widener and his team pushed through the
technical ice and winds the previous weekend, and provided helpful beta on the
ice conditions, location of the infamous fixed line, and Camp Hazard platforms.
John Godino also shared notes from an adjacent route, the Fuhrer Finger, which
boasted of 25 pound packs and encouraged carrying up and over, down the
Disappointment Cleaver. Armed with these reports plus our own first-hand
knowledge, it was time to get the band back together. We had one roster
substitution from the previous weekend, setting the team as Ally Imbody, Eric
Kennedy, Nate Mullen, Hannah Seebach, Kevin Vandemore and me.
by forecasts of blue skies and calm winds the following weekend. Fewer than 48
hours after being thoroughly shut down, we were planning a reattempt. Glenn Widener and his team pushed through the
technical ice and winds the previous weekend, and provided helpful beta on the
ice conditions, location of the infamous fixed line, and Camp Hazard platforms.
John Godino also shared notes from an adjacent route, the Fuhrer Finger, which
boasted of 25 pound packs and encouraged carrying up and over, down the
Disappointment Cleaver. Armed with these reports plus our own first-hand
knowledge, it was time to get the band back together. We had one roster
substitution from the previous weekend, setting the team as Ally Imbody, Eric
Kennedy, Nate Mullen, Hannah Seebach, Kevin Vandemore and me.
 |
| Jon Skeen and Eric Kennedy starting up the 3rd pitch of ice on the Kautz Glacier under a super moon |
Spirits were high and
pack weights were down, which was important; the pace had to be more aggressive
this time, as we didn’t have a long weekend to work with. We aimed to make high camp around 11,000
feet Saturday, then head up the Kautz and down the DC Sunday. We got
off to a great start, leaving the trail head at Paradise at exactly 5:05
am. It had been a hot week on the mountain and much of the snow that slowed our
early progress the last time had melted out, making our descent from the trail
onto the Nisqually Glacier more direct. Of course, the disappearing snow had
opened new crevasses and exposed new seracs as well. Undeterred, we roped up
and made our serpentine path towards the Wilson Glacier.
pack weights were down, which was important; the pace had to be more aggressive
this time, as we didn’t have a long weekend to work with. We aimed to make high camp around 11,000
feet Saturday, then head up the Kautz and down the DC Sunday. We got
off to a great start, leaving the trail head at Paradise at exactly 5:05
am. It had been a hot week on the mountain and much of the snow that slowed our
early progress the last time had melted out, making our descent from the trail
onto the Nisqually Glacier more direct. Of course, the disappearing snow had
opened new crevasses and exposed new seracs as well. Undeterred, we roped up
and made our serpentine path towards the Wilson Glacier.
We reached our previous
camp at 9,200 ft. around 11 a.m, shaving about two hours off of our previous time. We
took a break here to refill water bottles from the flowing glacier melt and
marveled at how much familiar landmarks had changed in just six days. We could
see a couple tents set up here, but it wasn’t until we were nearing the bottom
of the Turtle Snowfield that we realized there were twelve tents set up. While
that’s not uncommon for the Emmons Glacier or DC routes, it’s virtually unheard
of for the Kautz. Twelve people is more typical of the population on this line.
We were able to ascertain that the tents belonged to a large group from a
climbing club in Utah, some experienced climbers, some very fresh who probably
didn’t fully appreciate what they had gotten into. Our experiences with these
guys could fill another write-up, but for now let’s let’s just say we really
wanted to stay ahead of them.
camp at 9,200 ft. around 11 a.m, shaving about two hours off of our previous time. We
took a break here to refill water bottles from the flowing glacier melt and
marveled at how much familiar landmarks had changed in just six days. We could
see a couple tents set up here, but it wasn’t until we were nearing the bottom
of the Turtle Snowfield that we realized there were twelve tents set up. While
that’s not uncommon for the Emmons Glacier or DC routes, it’s virtually unheard
of for the Kautz. Twelve people is more typical of the population on this line.
We were able to ascertain that the tents belonged to a large group from a
climbing club in Utah, some experienced climbers, some very fresh who probably
didn’t fully appreciate what they had gotten into. Our experiences with these
guys could fill another write-up, but for now let’s let’s just say we really
wanted to stay ahead of them.
Upward we marched,
gaining a thousand feet on the Turtle before taking a quick break for food and
water. We watched two climbers ascending in our boot tracks. As they neared, we
saw what appeared to be a “No Jive Ass” sticker and realized there
was a good chance we knew these dudes. Sure enough, there were two more Mazamas
on the Kautz! Victor Galotti and Brian Wetzel had been camped out where the Nisqually
and Wilson meet and had caught up to us, which I maintain was largely due to
the quality of the steps we were kicking for everyone behind us. We decided to
team up for the rest of the day and through the ice pitches in the morning.
gaining a thousand feet on the Turtle before taking a quick break for food and
water. We watched two climbers ascending in our boot tracks. As they neared, we
saw what appeared to be a “No Jive Ass” sticker and realized there
was a good chance we knew these dudes. Sure enough, there were two more Mazamas
on the Kautz! Victor Galotti and Brian Wetzel had been camped out where the Nisqually
and Wilson meet and had caught up to us, which I maintain was largely due to
the quality of the steps we were kicking for everyone behind us. We decided to
team up for the rest of the day and through the ice pitches in the morning.
Buoyed by this
encounter, we pushed to the top the the Turtle and into Camp Hazard. We claimed
a few platforms for our team and set off to find the fixed line and get our
first real look at the ice. The route was dramatic: cracked ice hanging above
and waiting below. As if issuing a warning or a challenge, a few large blocks
of ice let lose and tumbled down into the gaping maws below. We returned to our
platforms to work out the next day’s plan, eat, and get to sleep early. We
chatted with a few other small parties and lamented the throng that would be
pressing from below. With our hunger and planning satisfied, it was time to
get as much sleep as possible before our midnight wake up time.
encounter, we pushed to the top the the Turtle and into Camp Hazard. We claimed
a few platforms for our team and set off to find the fixed line and get our
first real look at the ice. The route was dramatic: cracked ice hanging above
and waiting below. As if issuing a warning or a challenge, a few large blocks
of ice let lose and tumbled down into the gaping maws below. We returned to our
platforms to work out the next day’s plan, eat, and get to sleep early. We
chatted with a few other small parties and lamented the throng that would be
pressing from below. With our hunger and planning satisfied, it was time to
get as much sleep as possible before our midnight wake up time.
 |
| Mt. Rainier Summit team with Eric Kennedy, Kevin Vandemore, Ally Imbody, Nate Mullen, Hannah Seebach, and Jon Skeen. |
The alarms rang, time to
get moving. We made our way to the fixed line via headlamps and the super moon.
Nate was first down. As he reached the bottom we heard a crack! and
looked towards the ice fall to see block after block of ice tumbling across our
traverse line. It’s one thing to know there is danger in the abstract; it’s
another to watch it tumble where you’ll be walking in five minutes. With a
renewed appreciation for the objective hazard, we roped up and shuffled across
as quickly as possible. We made it to the base of the ice without incident and
up went Nate, leading the first of several pitches.
get moving. We made our way to the fixed line via headlamps and the super moon.
Nate was first down. As he reached the bottom we heard a crack! and
looked towards the ice fall to see block after block of ice tumbling across our
traverse line. It’s one thing to know there is danger in the abstract; it’s
another to watch it tumble where you’ll be walking in five minutes. With a
renewed appreciation for the objective hazard, we roped up and shuffled across
as quickly as possible. We made it to the base of the ice without incident and
up went Nate, leading the first of several pitches.
One by one, we ascended
fixed lines, moving in tandem with other teams all fighting to stay ahead of
the giant group we knew was hot on our heels. We managed to stay out front for
a few pitches, but the top came to a bottleneck and we were stuck while we
waited for an opening to push through. Finally, Kevin had a chance to lead the
final pitch and we fought our way out of the chute. I was impressed with our
team’s ability to climb cleanly; altogether we knocked down maybe four pieces
while the other teams around rained ice on everyone below.
fixed lines, moving in tandem with other teams all fighting to stay ahead of
the giant group we knew was hot on our heels. We managed to stay out front for
a few pitches, but the top came to a bottleneck and we were stuck while we
waited for an opening to push through. Finally, Kevin had a chance to lead the
final pitch and we fought our way out of the chute. I was impressed with our
team’s ability to climb cleanly; altogether we knocked down maybe four pieces
while the other teams around rained ice on everyone below.
 |
| Kevin Vandermore scouting the descent route on the DC. |
After a quick break to
exchange gear, Victor and Brian set off on their way and the original team
regrouped for a bit before pushing up toward Point Success. We picked our way
up the Kautz, surrounded by the Utah teams. This made the going very slow, but
did allow us to conserve energy. Silver linings, right? After several steps
plunging into air and a few “verbal scuffles” (as I’m choosing to call them)
with the Utah teams, we were able to make our way off the glacier. The crater
was in sight! Just in time too, as clouds were starting to move in. We worked
our way up to the summit and snapped our victory photos. One more quick stop at
the summit register and down into the crater to melt snow.
exchange gear, Victor and Brian set off on their way and the original team
regrouped for a bit before pushing up toward Point Success. We picked our way
up the Kautz, surrounded by the Utah teams. This made the going very slow, but
did allow us to conserve energy. Silver linings, right? After several steps
plunging into air and a few “verbal scuffles” (as I’m choosing to call them)
with the Utah teams, we were able to make our way off the glacier. The crater
was in sight! Just in time too, as clouds were starting to move in. We worked
our way up to the summit and snapped our victory photos. One more quick stop at
the summit register and down into the crater to melt snow.
Once all the bottles
were filled it was time to follow the wands down the DC. By this time the snow
had turned into sugary mush and we were sliding around a little more than is
comfortable on a crevasse riddled downhill trail. A pair of collapsing snow
bridges (which I fear we may have finished off) added additional spice. Down
and down we went, reaching the Cleaver and down climbing a bit of rock to avoid
steep, slippery snow. We made it down the Cleaver, across the Ingraham
(including a ladder over a crevasse), and over to Camp Muir. One last break
before bombing the Muir Snowfield and returning to the parking lot.
were filled it was time to follow the wands down the DC. By this time the snow
had turned into sugary mush and we were sliding around a little more than is
comfortable on a crevasse riddled downhill trail. A pair of collapsing snow
bridges (which I fear we may have finished off) added additional spice. Down
and down we went, reaching the Cleaver and down climbing a bit of rock to avoid
steep, slippery snow. We made it down the Cleaver, across the Ingraham
(including a ladder over a crevasse), and over to Camp Muir. One last break
before bombing the Muir Snowfield and returning to the parking lot.
While we high-fived and
drank our mandatory Rainiers-on-Rainier, we watched headlamps flickering across
the Kautz. The Utah club was still at it; one of the consequences of ignoring
your turnaround time. We’ve since heard they made it down ok, but two days
overdue. Yikes! Hearing that only makes me more appreciative of the awesome
team we had on this incredible route.
drank our mandatory Rainiers-on-Rainier, we watched headlamps flickering across
the Kautz. The Utah club was still at it; one of the consequences of ignoring
your turnaround time. We’ve since heard they made it down ok, but two days
overdue. Yikes! Hearing that only makes me more appreciative of the awesome
team we had on this incredible route.