For the Love of Mountains

[From the June 2012 Mazama Bulletin]
by Ed Johann

On Sunday, May 13, 1973, six blind teenagers equipped themselves with ropes and crampons to scale the tallest mountain in Oregon. These brave, adventurous young people attended the Washington State School for the Blind in Vancouver, Washington. The six students included 12-year-olds Viola Cruz and Theresa Clay, 14-year-olds Dan Davidson and Bernie Buhl, and 18-year-olds Les Robbins and Dean Atkinson.

It was with some hesitation that I agreed to lead these enthusiastic youngsters up to the summit of Oregon’s highest mountain. I’ve had years of experience as a mountain guide in the United States and abroad, but never have I had the responsibility of a group like this one. I had visited the students at their school several times to talk to them and let them handle some of the mountaineering equipment.

Two experienced mountaineers accompanied each blind student on the trek up the 11,235-ft. snow-capped Mt. Hood. The party left from Timberline Lodge at 6,000 ft. and were under the direction of myself, Ed Johann, a Portland, Oregon fireman at the time, long associated with the Mazamas Mountaineering organization and the Mountain Rescue Service.

We equipped them well and took more precautions than usual to ensure their safety and protect them from the elements. We wanted to give them a mountaineering experience that they would remember happily. According to Bryan Bernow, superintendent of the school, “An object of the climb is to prove that you needn’t be able to see something to enjoy it.”

I learned that they had been getting into physical condition for this venture by running a course laid out with lengths of string. They would place one of their hands on the string to aid them as they jogged along. Mr. Berhow said that the students were really excited about the climb. I needed and obtained help for this venture from a few mountaineering friends. I also had the assistance of my two sons, Joe and Ed Jr., who had had many mountain ascents in the Northwest Cascades and elsewhere. I was also able to acquire the needed technical equipment for the kids and arrange the transportation.

For safety on the mountain, I tied everyone together in rope teams as we traveled upwards. The adults traveling with us used flashlights in the darkness to aid progress. The welfare of our young companions was the main concern of this climb. If anyone became tired or wanted to quit, we would all turn back. If the weather turned bad, the trip would be called off.

As prepared as we could be, our attempt began at Timberline Lodge. In the darkness of the early morning, we made sure that each student had the proper equipment needed in their pack sacks. The group started in good weather from the lodge at 2:30 a.m., the youngsters noticing the brisk, cold night winds. After the rising of the sun, it was necessary to remind them often to apply sunscreen lotion.

We had a slow, but steady pace set, and except for the sounds of boots crunching into the snow, it was quiet while we were traveling. As the dark, silent morning turned to semi-darkness, and streaks of gray began to show, a new day was born. Now with the warm morning sun shining, members of the group began to chatter as the warmth embraced them. The adults described the wondrous scenery to their young friends as we continued our steady pace.

In the steep or difficult places, we set up hand lines as well as being roped together in teams. Safety was the number one factor. After reaching the higher mountain slopes, efforts became tiring. We had a few rest stops during which we ate snacks of cookies and candy. Sunscreen lotion was also applied at these times. The students were unable to appreciate the various bright colors of packs and clothing spread out on the white snow during these rest stops. Viola said the students were able to eat lunch, despite the rotten egg smell slope of sulfur fumes from the crater, which sometimes spoils climbers’ appetites. “The food was good and we really were hungry,” she said.

The last torturous feet to the summit were up “The Chute,” an agonizingly steep slope that has claimed lives in the past. Special protection was provided here by setting lines anchored with pickets in the snow. The blind youngsters met the challenge with guts and determination, more than I’ve ever seen from any neophyte climbers. Near the summit we were involved with some very steep pitches and some precipitous sections. But, after much exertion and encouragement, we finally managed to get everyone on the summit; elevation 11,235 feet. The youngsters were all very excited that they had accomplished this great feat. It took 12 hours to reach the summit; the same amount of time usually needed to make the round trip. Miserable snow conditions, not the kids, slowed the party.

The girls were so tired they made the summit on sheer determination, nothing else. We’ve never been so impressed—to see a wisp of a little girl doing what strong, grown men sometimes have been unable to do. We were pretty choked up standing on top of that mountain with those incredible kids. We all felt good, really good.

By midday the snow had turned to mush under the springtime sun and the climbers sank to their knees with each step on the descent. Ski poles, carried by the blind students for more stability instead of the usual ice ax, helped keep the youngsters from stumbling at that point.

What was the favorite part of the climb for the students? “Going down,” they all agreed. The group, despite the messy snow, was able to glide and slide down the safer inclines. On the final stretch, a broad blanket of snow stretching thousands of feet in a gentle incline, two of the blind boys took the lead, using a ski pole to find the way. The trip back to Timberline Lodge took about four hours.

Viola, describing the climbers’ triumphant feeling, said “I did what I couldn’t believe I’d do, stand almost at the top of the world for a few minutes.”

I have climbed many peaks higher than this one, but because of these students, this will remain the high point of my mountaineering career.

News of this climb is mentioned in publications such as Mount Hood by Jack Grauer, Blindskills Inc., Salem, Oregon, Hazardous Adventures by Ed Johann, International Herald Tribune, Paris, France and newspapers in Oregon and Washington.

[From the April 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

Ingalls Peak, various routes (7662 ft)
Ingalls Peak, or perhaps Ingalls Peaks because there are three separate peaks, is located directly west of Mt. Stuart and is accessed through Cle Elum and I-90. It is possible to climb Ingalls car-to-car in a long day, but why do that when an overnight near beautiful Lake Ingalls is possible (mountain goats up close included)? Most climbers head straight to the classic South Ridge route of the 7662 ft. North Peak where very good rock and moderate 5.6 climbing awaits eager AR graduates. Not quite as popular is the East Ridge route, also on the North Peak, which is low 5th class except for a short section of 5.7 near the summit. From Ingalls’ summit there is a jaw-dropping view of the West Ridge route of Mt. Stuart, which will make a climber dream of even bigger adventures.

Castle and Pinnacle – Sojo Hendrix Photo

The Tatoosh, various peaks and routes
Along Rainier National Park’s southern boundary lies an east-west subrange called The Tatoosh. This range extends from Tatoosh Peak itself westward to Eagle and Chutla Peaks. The summits of this range are very popular because they are easily accessible, require moderate technical skills and, when the weather is nice, provide fabulous views of Mt. Rainier. While Tatoosh Peak and Stevens Peak on the east end of the range are seldom climbed, Unicorn Peak, The Castle, and Pinnacle Peak are very popular. Slightly less popular are Boundary, Lane, Plummer, Wahpenayo, Chutla, and Eagle. Maintained trails lead close to the tops of some of these peaks while the rest have 3rd and 4th class scramble routes. It is possible in a two day backcountry weekend to climb all the peaks from Unicorn to Eagle. If you desire more excitement than a scramble, Unicorn Peak has short routes on the summit block that are rated up to 5.6, as does The Castle, and the east ridge of Pinnacle is a long single pitch 5.4 rock climb. While Lane Peak’s main route is a scramble, there are several steep multi-pitch snow couloirs on the north side of the peak that can be climbed in winter or early season. The best known of these routes is called The Zipper. All in all, The Tatoosh are hard to beat for their alpine environment, mixed snow and rock routes, and gorgeous mountain scenery.

Mt Hood, various routes (11,240 ft)
The route choices on Mt. Hood are numerous and this year climb leaders will be offering seven routes up several sides of the mountain, including the standard Old Chute, the more difficult Wy’east route and the Reid Glacier. No matter which route you choose, you will find technical challenges along the way to the summit. If you want to avoid the crowds, look for a weekday climb of the peak.

Mt. Adams, South Side or Mazama Glacier (12,276 ft)
The South Side route on Mt. Adams is a high, gentle climb, great for beginning climbers who want an overnight trip with fewer people and a more wilderness feel than Mt. Hood. You will encounter little technical difficulty on this South Side route, but you will get to try your hand at camping around 9,000 ft. and using crampons and an ice axe. The Mazama Glacier route offers a bit more of a technical challenge and you may encounter snow slopes of up to 35-40 degrees, along with open crevasses.

Del Campo Peak, SW Buttress (6610 ft)
Del Campo Peak is among the peaks in the Monte Cristo range. It has a moderate approach over snow in early season, or on heather and rock in the summer. The summit pinnacle is a 3rd class scramble. The approach is through a historic mining area and many climbers choose to camp at Foggy Lake below Del Campo. Gothic Peak is often climbed on the same trip.

Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier (8868 ft.)
Eldorado Peak is located on the edge of an expansive ice shelf in the North Cascades. The views from the summit are among the best in the North Cascades National Park, from Forbidden Peak, Buckner and Sahale Peaks to the summits of the Ptarmigan Traverse. The climb itself is a straightforward glacier climb with a knife-edged ridge leading to the dramatic summit. The approach is a typical North Cascades steep and strenuous hike, but well worth the effort.

[From the May 2012 Mazama Bulletin]

By Natalie Wessel, CSCS

Spring is upon us, and that means summer climbing season is on its way! As many of the 2012 BCEP students are learning first-hand, conditioning hikes are a key way to get fit to climb. But what other training routines are Mazamas following to get in shape? I interviewed a number of active members and here is what I learned.

Why do you think exercise is important for climbers? How has it also helped you in your daily life? ASI grad Derek Castonguay believes there are many variables to consider. “A climber must be able to get themselves and their gear up and down the mountain efficiently and confidently. Typical climbs go on for hours in duration, and travel through rugged and steep terrain at altitude. Climbing involves carrying heavy packs with large boots and bulky clothing. It is difficult even for the high-volume climber to stay in such sport-specific fitness. Thus, a structured exercise program is quite beneficial.”

Climb leader Tim Scott boils it down to this: “If you’re fit, you’re going to have a far more enjoyable time in the mountains. You’ll also be able to cover more ambitious efforts with a larger margin for delays.”

David Zeps, a climb leader and physician, provides another angle. “In my daily life, exercise helps me sleep better, gets my mind off problems and when done with a group, such as hiking with the Mazamas, is a bit of socialization and a chance to meet interesting people.”

Tell me about your active lifestyle–do you follow a specific training program?

I was curious to learn what some of my Mazama peers are doing right now, pre-season.

Wim Aarts, Climb Leader and former ski mountaineering leader for the German Alpine Society, integrates his training into daily life, with a daily 14-mile bike commute to work and a mission to continuously stay fit. “Training for me is much more an addiction than anything else. I’ve bike commuted since I was 18 years old. Biking to work is the most refreshing part of the whole day. And I basically stay relatively fit all year round. I’ve never been in a gym. I hate gyms. I bike, I run, I hike. I come home, I have a pull-up bar and some weights, I do some crunches. I like that much more. Being fit is really fun.”

Tim Scott lives an active lifestyle, too, incorporating cross training. “I bike around town whenever I go out or run errands, probably about 2-3 hours per week. Adding 10-15 lbs increases the workout a little. I also run steps at Mt. Tabor once a week. Eight laps takes about 45 minutes and counts for about 2,500 feet. That’s excellent cardio and strength training. I also get into the
rock gym 2-3 times per week.”

Robin Wilcox, a current AR student, seeks opportunities to improve her fitness every chance she gets. “I always carry extra weight in my pack when I’m hiking even if it’s just a hike with non-climbing friends. They usually think that’s pretty great because it means I’m carrying everyone’s lunch, extra clothes, etc., but it really pays off when I’m on a climb.”

Derek Castonguay works out at the gym, and stresses the importance of balancing cardio, strength and flexibility. “My choice for cardio is the elliptical trainer, with upper and lower body involvement and adjustable incline. You can keep yourself motivated by visualizing yourself climbing up a steep mountain!” As for strength training, “Strong legs are the main focus to climb up and DOWN steep terrain with a heavy pack and stay in control. Muscular endurance is most important. I prefer lunges in various directions for this. You train with functional movements building strength, balance, and stamina.”
Jed Stasch, an ASI Grad, mostly runs but notes the importance of training with purpose. “Running satisfies my need for cardio conditioning, but it does not help me carry a pack. In the early spring (now), I will start hiking with weight. Going fully loaded on a climb when you haven’t carried a pack in five months can be pretty painful.” He adds, “By far my most productive training has occurred while preparing for a particular climb or trip. I start ramping up my activity a good 6-8 weeks in advance, and am able to find motivation that I would never otherwise find.”

Specificity is indeed a key element. To prepare for a Denali attempt this June, David Zeps has been walking a loop in his neighborhood with a progressively heavier pack since November. He notes, “the loop is 3 or 3.5 miles, and I started with a 20 lb pack, increasing by 5 lbs about every 2 weeks and doing the loop 5 times a week. I will lengthen the distance and elevation gain once I’m at the 60 lbs. Target is 60 lbs, 4 miles and 2,500 feet of elevation gain for several days in a row without aches or pains that carry over from one day to the next.”

Considering the importance of being able to take care of yourself when you are part of a team strikes a chord as well. David remarks, “As a member of a goal-oriented group, we have an obligation … to contribute and not to be an impediment to achieving the climbing goal. Since the goal requires a certain level of fitness, the climber must exercise to achieve the level of fitness needed in a climb.”

Considerations when getting started?

It is important to take into consideration your current level of fitness when embarking on a new program. Trying to do too much, too soon, may result in injuries and over-training.
Derek reinforces, “It does take time to build a foundation. Try to plan ahead so you can allow a slow, steady progression to avoid over-training. I would recommend a good 6-8 weeks.”

Shayna Rehberg, a graduate of AR and multi-sport athlete, values the time in between workouts as a means to recover properly. “Getting enough/regular sleep is my goal for general quality of life and any kind of training I’m doing. I aim for 8 hours. It’s ongoing work for me, but I know how good I’ve felt—mind, body, heart, spirit, everything—when I’ve managed to get a prolonged period of good rest.”

David Zeps adds some age-appropriate considerations: “Older people, particularly in their 50s and 60s, need much more time, in part because they may be rebuilding muscle mass and bone mass and slightly remodeling joints with early arthritic changes.” Wim Aarts echoes, “It becomes much more important when you get older. I don’t do extreme hard training, but when you get older you can’t afford to stop 2 months and then go run a marathon. You recover much less easily, and you need to be more consistent.”

Jed Stasch provides some advice to BCEP students: “The BCEP hikes are a fantastic tool for building strength and a base fitness level. While you will see significant gains in a single season, keep in mind that those gains can be built upon year to year, which can be pretty rewarding. Use the BCEP hikes to accustom to training in the rain, in the cold, and in the dark. Then you can better train through the winter, an ideal time to get fit for the coming climbing season.”

Robin Wilcox closes: “For [BCEP] climbers, I’d say take the conditioning hikes seriously. Make sure you’re adding weight each week and moving quickly and efficiently. The conditioning hikes should be fun, but they aren’t a stroll through the woods. When I was finished with BCEP, I almost felt like the climbs were easier and more relaxed than the pace of our team’s conditioning hikes.”

7 pm, Friday, June 22, 2012

Damien Gildea literally wrote the book on mountaineering in Antarctica and will be giving a slide show on his expeditions in there over the past decade or more. Damien is the Antarctica correspondent for Climb magazine, the American Alpine Journal and Alpinist magazine. If you’ve ever been curious about climbing in the deep south, well, here’s your chance to find out more!

WHEN: June 22, 2012, 7 pm
WHERE: Mazamas Mountaineering Center on SE 43rd and Stark in Portland

For more information, please follow this link:
http://www.mazamas.org/your/adventure/calendar_event/1900/

Wednesdays

The Mazamas’ only Eastside ramble begins at the Mazama Mountaineering Center 43rd/Stark. Walk at a brisk pace (2.5-3.0 mi/hr) through the streets, admiring the gardens of SE Portland up to Mt. Tabor Park. We may even catch a glimpse of a heritage tree. Once in the park we will take alternating trails to the top of the park up to the top of the #280 stairs at the NE corner of the park.

From there we will have 30 minutes to walk up and down the stairs then finish with a moderate stroll back to the MMC. Great training for climbing or backpacking this summer (load up your packs as you wish ?). Total mileage 6 miles (not including stairs climbed up/down). Elevation gain approx. 600 ft. Starts promptly at 6 pm. Total time 2 hours. Leader: Meg Linza, (503) 502-8782. $2.00 Fee .

WHEN: Wednesdays starting at 6pm (please arrive a little early to sign in)
WHERE: Mazamas Mountaineering Center on SE 43rd and Stark in Portland

XXX

See webpage for dates –
Leader Training: June 23, 2012

This summer, the Sunnyside Street Tree Team, in partnership with Portland Parks & Recreation Urban Forestry, will inventory every street tree in our neighborhood. We’ll record important tree data and compile a report with future planting recommendations for our street trees! It’s a great opportunity to learn about tree types and more!

Volunteer opportunities include:

Team Leader – Must attend training session June 23rd. Great opportunity to improve tree identification skills and learn more about tree health.

Data Collector – No experience required. Work alongside a team leader. Measure trees & record data along the inventory route.

Arborist-on-Call – Assist inventory teams with tough Tree ID questions, tree condition assessment, and high voltage wire recognition.

For more information and to register for the project, please follow this link.

June 23, 2012

Beacon Rock’s future is uncertain: regional climbers can no longer take this rare gem for granted. If you are interested in preserving climbers’ access to Beacon Rock, please join the newly-formed Beacon Rock Climbing Association [BRCA] for an organizing event and barbecue next weekend.

This event is to support the organizing efforts of the BRCA and its friends. Join us for food & drinks, meet new and old school climbers, raffle give-away and learn more about volunteer opportunities at Beacon Rock State Park.

WHEN: June 23, 2012, 12:00 noon
WHERE: Beacon Rock State Park, Upper Picnic Area – site S1

For more information, please consult the BRCA page on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BeaconRockClimbingAssociation

Friday, July 27th – Sunday, July 29th, 2012

Come and enjoy a wonderful weekend in the Badger Creek Wilderness!

You will be able to choose whether you want a more scenic pace and shorter distance (A) or more strenuous pace and longer distance (C). We will have up to 3 groups of 12 participants per group. Overall costs are $130 (members) and $160 (non-members), which includes all meals (2 breakfast, 2 lunch, 2 dinner), lodging, fees, and transportation.

We’ll start by gathering at the Mazama Lodge on Friday night July 27th for a light meal and a relaxing evening getting to know each other. 

After a night in the lodge and Saturday morning breakfast, we will be transported to different trailheads to start our hiking. Groups will hike with daypacks up to a saddle near the Flag Point Lookout, where the lodge chuckwagon will meet us with our heavy gear (tents, sleeping bags, etc.) so we can set up our camp.

We will have time to tour the fire lookout – one of only 3 manned lookouts in the Mount Hood National Forest. The lodge will prepare our delicious chuckwagon style dinner and also breakfast on Sunday morning at our campsite. After breakfast, the groups will pack up their heavy gear for transport then head out on different routes, to be picked up at trailheads for the ride back to the Mazama Lodge.

The Lodge will have some Happy Hour appetizers waiting for you before you head home.

If you have additional questions or would like to sign-up, email Sojo Hendrix at sojo42@gmail.com.