[From the May 2012 Mazama Bulletin]
Spring is upon us, and that means summer climbing season is on its way! As many of the 2012 BCEP students are learning first-hand, conditioning hikes are a key way to get fit to climb. But what other training routines are Mazamas following to get in shape? I interviewed a number of active members and here is what I learned.
Why do you think exercise is important for climbers? How has it also helped you in your daily life? ASI grad Derek Castonguay believes there are many variables to consider. “A climber must be able to get themselves and their gear up and down the mountain efficiently and confidently. Typical climbs go on for hours in duration, and travel through rugged and steep terrain at altitude. Climbing involves carrying heavy packs with large boots and bulky clothing. It is difficult even for the high-volume climber to stay in such sport-specific fitness. Thus, a structured exercise program is quite beneficial.”
Climb leader Tim Scott boils it down to this: “If you’re fit, you’re going to have a far more enjoyable time in the mountains. You’ll also be able to cover more ambitious efforts with a larger margin for delays.”
David Zeps, a climb leader and physician, provides another angle. “In my daily life, exercise helps me sleep better, gets my mind off problems and when done with a group, such as hiking with the Mazamas, is a bit of socialization and a chance to meet interesting people.”
Tell me about your active lifestyle–do you follow a specific training program?
I was curious to learn what some of my Mazama peers are doing right now, pre-season.
Wim Aarts, Climb Leader and former ski mountaineering leader for the German Alpine Society, integrates his training into daily life, with a daily 14-mile bike commute to work and a mission to continuously stay fit. “Training for me is much more an addiction than anything else. I’ve bike commuted since I was 18 years old. Biking to work is the most refreshing part of the whole day. And I basically stay relatively fit all year round. I’ve never been in a gym. I hate gyms. I bike, I run, I hike. I come home, I have a pull-up bar and some weights, I do some crunches. I like that much more. Being fit is really fun.”
Tim Scott lives an active lifestyle, too, incorporating cross training. “I bike around town whenever I go out or run errands, probably about 2-3 hours per week. Adding 10-15 lbs increases the workout a little. I also run steps at Mt. Tabor once a week. Eight laps takes about 45 minutes and counts for about 2,500 feet. That’s excellent cardio and strength training. I also get into the
rock gym 2-3 times per week.”
Robin Wilcox, a current AR student, seeks opportunities to improve her fitness every chance she gets. “I always carry extra weight in my pack when I’m hiking even if it’s just a hike with non-climbing friends. They usually think that’s pretty great because it means I’m carrying everyone’s lunch, extra clothes, etc., but it really pays off when I’m on a climb.”
Derek Castonguay works out at the gym, and stresses the importance of balancing cardio, strength and flexibility. “My choice for cardio is the elliptical trainer, with upper and lower body involvement and adjustable incline. You can keep yourself motivated by visualizing yourself climbing up a steep mountain!” As for strength training, “Strong legs are the main focus to climb up and DOWN steep terrain with a heavy pack and stay in control. Muscular endurance is most important. I prefer lunges in various directions for this. You train with functional movements building strength, balance, and stamina.”
Jed Stasch, an ASI Grad, mostly runs but notes the importance of training with purpose. “Running satisfies my need for cardio conditioning, but it does not help me carry a pack. In the early spring (now), I will start hiking with weight. Going fully loaded on a climb when you haven’t carried a pack in five months can be pretty painful.” He adds, “By far my most productive training has occurred while preparing for a particular climb or trip. I start ramping up my activity a good 6-8 weeks in advance, and am able to find motivation that I would never otherwise find.”
Specificity is indeed a key element. To prepare for a Denali attempt this June, David Zeps has been walking a loop in his neighborhood with a progressively heavier pack since November. He notes, “the loop is 3 or 3.5 miles, and I started with a 20 lb pack, increasing by 5 lbs about every 2 weeks and doing the loop 5 times a week. I will lengthen the distance and elevation gain once I’m at the 60 lbs. Target is 60 lbs, 4 miles and 2,500 feet of elevation gain for several days in a row without aches or pains that carry over from one day to the next.”
Considering the importance of being able to take care of yourself when you are part of a team strikes a chord as well. David remarks, “As a member of a goal-oriented group, we have an obligation … to contribute and not to be an impediment to achieving the climbing goal. Since the goal requires a certain level of fitness, the climber must exercise to achieve the level of fitness needed in a climb.”
Considerations when getting started?
It is important to take into consideration your current level of fitness when embarking on a new program. Trying to do too much, too soon, may result in injuries and over-training.
Derek reinforces, “It does take time to build a foundation. Try to plan ahead so you can allow a slow, steady progression to avoid over-training. I would recommend a good 6-8 weeks.”
Shayna Rehberg, a graduate of AR and multi-sport athlete, values the time in between workouts as a means to recover properly. “Getting enough/regular sleep is my goal for general quality of life and any kind of training I’m doing. I aim for 8 hours. It’s ongoing work for me, but I know how good I’ve felt—mind, body, heart, spirit, everything—when I’ve managed to get a prolonged period of good rest.”
David Zeps adds some age-appropriate considerations: “Older people, particularly in their 50s and 60s, need much more time, in part because they may be rebuilding muscle mass and bone mass and slightly remodeling joints with early arthritic changes.” Wim Aarts echoes, “It becomes much more important when you get older. I don’t do extreme hard training, but when you get older you can’t afford to stop 2 months and then go run a marathon. You recover much less easily, and you need to be more consistent.”
Jed Stasch provides some advice to BCEP students: “The BCEP hikes are a fantastic tool for building strength and a base fitness level. While you will see significant gains in a single season, keep in mind that those gains can be built upon year to year, which can be pretty rewarding. Use the BCEP hikes to accustom to training in the rain, in the cold, and in the dark. Then you can better train through the winter, an ideal time to get fit for the coming climbing season.”
Robin Wilcox closes: “For [BCEP] climbers, I’d say take the conditioning hikes seriously. Make sure you’re adding weight each week and moving quickly and efficiently. The conditioning hikes should be fun, but they aren’t a stroll through the woods. When I was finished with BCEP, I almost felt like the climbs were easier and more relaxed than the pace of our team’s conditioning hikes.”
