Sport lead climbing is on the short list for the 2020 Olympics. According to Climbing Magazine, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) met in Switzerland with the International Olympic Committee Program Commission on December 19 to make its final pitch for inclusion. Sport lead climbing is in competition with six other sports: baseball/softball, karate, roller sports, squash, wakeboarding, and wushu. A decision on the matter is expected in September 2013.
AVALANCHE BEACON RECALL
Ortovox is recalling its new 3+ avalanche transceiver because in recent testing, some of the devices from a group shipped to vendors after October 17, 2012 “switched to transmission mode unintentionally after 120 seconds in search mode.” If you own an Ortovox 3+, follow this link to check your device’s serial number. Recalled devices will be inspected and given any needed upgrades.
GIGAPIXEL IMAGE OF KHUMBU GLACIER
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Khumbu Glacier – Pumori 2012 |
If you have a few minutes to kill and a computer with good RAM, have a look at this amazing image. Can you zoom in and find the climbers? What about Everest Base Camp?
If you’d like to get a feel for how much the Khumbu Glacier has receded in the modern era, check out this link.
CARABINER RECALL: WILD COUNTRY HELIUM
Wild Country is voluntarily recalling units of the popular Helium carabiner purchased after July 15, 2012, having discovered a problem with the gate on some units. You can read details about the recall here.
SILVIA VIDAL – SOLO AID CLIMBER
A contemplative video about Silvia Vidal, who spent 32 days alone on Serrania Avalancha, a very big wall in Chilean Patagonia.
WINTER CLIMBING!

Welcome to our winter climb season! Here at the Mazamas, winter climbs run from December 1 to April 30. The good news is that, during the winter, the mountains have fewer climbers and more snow. The bad news is that the weather tends to be much less predictable and avalanche danger much greater. Therefore, the Mazamas conduct winter climbs a little differently from those that take place during the summer.
First of all, in order to accommodate the impromptu nature of Winter Climbs, as in “Hey, the weather looks good next Wednesday. Let’s go!” the Climb Application procedure is more flexible:
- View the climbs that leaders intend to lead in the upcoming months under Winter Climb Schedule on the Web site at this link.
- Choose the climb(s) you are interested in.
- Contact the leader for each climb that you would like to apply for. You may want to e-mail the climb leader a copy of your climb resume, along with a personal note highlighting some of the reasons why you would be an exceptional candidate for a spot on this particular climb.
- Wait for a call/e-mail from the leader letting you know when a climb is planned, or check out the schedule online.
- If you think there is an opportunity to climb, dropping a friendly note asking if they have any plans for upcoming climbs may be a good way to keep yourself in the loop.
- Dropping a friendly note every week is a good way to get yourself perceived as a little jumpy and not an exceptional candidate for a spot on this particular climb.
- If you are available for the climb, let the climb leader know.
- The climb leader should then send you a climb prospectus.
- Arrive promptly at the appointed meeting place.
- Bring a properly completed climb card with you to the climb (no stamp necessary).
- Bring batteries for the transceiver. Unless told otherwise, bring both AA and AAA just to be safe, as different transceivers take different batteries.
Because of increased avalanche danger during the winter climbing season, climb leaders will provide shovels, avalanche probes and transceivers for the climb team. If you own these tools, please bring them and let the climb leader know that you have them. Climb leaders will NOT provide batteries. [Note that grading of climbs is increased for winter.]
PORTLAND LOSES ITS CLIMBING FOOTWEAR RESOLER
Getting footwear resoled just got a little harder for local rock climbers and mountaineers.
As part of its recent business transformation, Portland’s Mountain Soles has stopped all resoling work, with the exception of resoling Patagonia footwear.
The company is going to continue doing outdoor equipment sewing and repair work, but those jobs will need to be dropped off at a local REI, or mailed to the non-retail space that Mountain Soles will soon be moving to.
Mountaineers are in luck: various shoe repair places around the Portland area can resole mountaineering boots with Vibram soles. But if you’re a rock climber, it looks like you’ll be mailing your blown-out rock shoes out of town.
Here are a few places you can send your shoes:
Ramutas Resoles – Helena, MT
Cascade Cobbler – Winthrop, WA
Fly’n Brian’s Resole – Las Vegas, NV
ProDeal Resoles – Pueblo, CO
Or, maybe you can do it yourself.
PUNKS IN THE GYM – FIRST FEMALE ASCENT
Check out this video of Mayan Smith- Gobat’s first female ascent of Punks in the Gym, at Australia’s Mt. Arapiles. This route was first established by Wolfgang Güllich in April 1985 and was one of the hardest routes in the world at that time. It is said to only have been climbed by about 30 male climbers thus far and it was one of the first routes that took sport climbing to the next level. Smith-Gobat spent more than two years working the route before finally redpointing the line on October 28. Really fun video to watch!
iNeverSolo: A LITTLE HELP FOR YOUR FRIENDS BACK HOME
File your plan with ineversolo, and if you don’t return as expected, the site gets in touch with your emergency contacts, fills them in on the details of your plan, and lets them know that you are late coming back.
FOREST SERVICE APPROVES A MOUNTAIN BIKE PARK ON MT. HOOD
Finding no evidence of significant impact, the United States Forest Service has given permission to RLK Company to develop a mountain bike park at Mount Hood’s Timberline Lodge and ski resort. This recent decision would allow the park to begin operating by summer 2014. Opposition groups have 45 days to file an appeal, though the process is limited only to those who were engaged in the comment period.
Here’s what Timberline Lodge has to say about the project, and here is a complete collection of related documents from the U.S. Forest Service.