For the Love of Mountains

Steve Heikkila, Mazama Climb Leader, 2012-2013 ICS coordinator, and occasional comedian, talks about his popular website, jive-assanchors.com. See why this website has gained quite a following here:

Conrad Anker presenting at the Portland Alpine Fest. (Photo: Andrew Holman)

 The Portland Alpine Festival provided the Mazamas and the community with a one week celebration of mountains and mountain culture. What does that mean exactly? 


Over a six day period there were multiple events to showcase the mountains, climbers, climbing culture, as well as to teach climbing techniques. There were movies, clinics, slideshows, and more … something for every mountain enthusiast in our midst.

The week kicked off with the Veterans Day event on Monday night with a showing of the movie High Ground, a 2012 documentary film. Attendee Derek Schroeder had this to say about the movie: “What’s moving about the film though is not just the journey to climb an imposing and beautiful peak in the Himalayas, it’s about the transformation the soldiers go through together and their bravery involved in healing each other’s scars. Like the military lifestyle, mountaineering creates a bond of trust stronger than most. They both have a unique capability to test a soldier’s true worth. While war tends to break men, mountains heal. Veterans to tell their stories in their own words, and face their emotional and mental scars of war.”

Tuesday night had a bit of a lighter atmosphere with the new Mazama Families group coming together­ for a fun evening at the MMC. There was climbing, games, food, to be had and enjoyed by the group.
Wednesday night offered up a stunning presentation of first ascents in Alaska by Mazama member John Frieh and Daniel Harro. Talk about celebrating mountains­—one couldn’t help but get excited about climbing after watching their slideshow and hearing about their experiences.

Margo Talbot instructing a clinic at the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

Once we headed in to Thursday it was non-stop excitement. On Thursday morning there were climbing  clinics running at the MMC while concurrently an outfitter guide workshop was held at the Left Bank Annex. Margo Talbot and Will Gadd were teaching folks how to swing tools while Adam Baylor and Lee Davis, along with the US Forest Service, were heading up the workshop to help those in the outdoor industry streamline the permitting process.

The Khumbu Climbing Center Dinner on Thursday night proved to be a successful fundraising dinner with more than $6,000 raised for the Center that provides world class climbing instruction for Nepali climbers and high altitude porters. The evening provided an exquisite meal to attendees, along with a program that included Conrad Anker, Jenny Anker-Lowe, Isabel Suppé, and  Will Gadd.

Friday morning got underway with more clinics while preparation began in earnest for Friday evening. Friday night was the penultimate event of the festival. Held at the Left Bank Annex, Mazamas and community members alike were treated to a high quality program by Margo Talbot and Conrad Anker, a silent auction filled with an incredible amount of gear, books, magazines, and gift certificates from local business, along with a vendor fair, and the presentation of the Mazama service awards. It was a full house and a good time was had by all.

Todd Eddie (Photo: Andrew Holman)

The Portland Alpine Fest came to a close on Saturday when the Portland Rock Gym hosted the 5th annual Portland Ice Fest. Many Mazama members were in attendance, and four of our members took podium positions in the competition!

Results
Men:
1st Place—Phil King
2nd Place—Todd Eddie

Amory Cervarich (Photo: Andrew Holman)

3rd Place—Tim Stabio

Women:
1st Place—Amory Cervarich
2nd Place—Katie Mills
3rd Place—Heather Campbell

Mark your calendars for next year – Nov. 3 – 9, 2014. It’ll be bigger and better than ever.

We’re looking for enthusiastic volunteers to deliver the monthly print Bulletin to a list of local shops.  The time commitment would be for one half a day, once a month, between the first and fourth of each month.  Help us get our Bulletin into the hands of prospective Mazamas members!  If you’re interested, email mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org.

Mazamas Membership Services will be processing dues starting in mid September and we are looking for extra office volunteers to help between then and the end of October. A long-term commitment is not necessary: if you could work one or more 3-4 hour shifts, call Jamie at the Mazamas office or email her at Jamie@mazamas.org.  Thanks!

Publications Committee Asks You to Think Ahead for Next Year’s Annual! 

We’re already in the planning stage for the 2013 Annual. We would love to hear about your adventures this winter, spring, summer and fall, especially any climbing-related stories you would like to share with fellow Mazamas.

We will help you edit any submissions you make. Please submit materials to mazama.annual@mazamas.org.

We’’d also like to encourage you to submit high-resolution photos of climbing, hiking or backpacking, even if they are not attached to an article. We would like to print a number of stand-alone photos from members in upcoming Annuals and we especially need vertically-oriented (portrait mode) pictures. Photos must be 300 dpi. Please give your photographs a descriptive file name and submit with a photo caption and credit. You can submit your photos to the email address above.

Deadlines:

• All reports are due Oct. 15: committee, outings (except fall), administrative 
• Feature articles are due Nov. 15 
• Photos are due Nov. 15 
• Climbs and hikes (spreadsheets) are due by Dec. 15 

Many thanks!­
—Mazama Publications Committee.

Road to Cloud Cap

Cloud Cap Road is now closed due to standing-dead hazards from the Gnarl Ridge fire.

For details about this closure, you can follow this link.