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Archive Exploration: Harold Bonebrake

by Maggie Tomberlin

Two hikers and Mt. Adam’s southeast face.
Photo: Harold Bonebrake.
As a new archive volunteer, I was excited to explore the Mazama’s historical collection. My first project, accessioning a collection of photographs by the late Harold Bonebrake, did not disappoint. Bonebrake was an avid photographer and an active Mazama in the late 1940s through 1960s. He volunteered his time on several committees, including the photography and research committees, and often showed his work in the Mazama Annual Photographic Exhibition. Highlights from the collection include photographs from past Mazama Annuals and outings, as well as photos of Mt. St. Helens before the eruption. In addition, the collection contains several excellent photographs of local glaciers, providing a valuable record of climate change in the Pacific Northwest.

Two hikers and Mt. Adam’s southeast face. Photo: Harold Bonebrake.
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Flower Finder: Top Spur Trail to McNeal Point Shelter Loop on Mt. Hood

by Barry Maletzky

Following the maze of roads to access the Top Spur Trail is worth the small effort as this route gains you the quickest access to the wonderful profundity of alpine wildflowers surrounding Mt. Hood, both in forest and meadow. All you have to do is look down at the start of the trail to see a miniature version of the flowering dogwood tree. Bunchberry, also called Canadian Dogwood, looks like someone plucked a cluster of dogwood tree flowers, then strewn them across the forest floor. As with the tree, the actual flowers are tiny dull thing-a-mig things poking up in the center of the four white “petals”, which only masquerade as petals; they’re really leafy bracts colored bright white to attract pollinating insects.

Also prominent in these woods is Parrot’s Beak Lousewort, a low-growing pinkish-purplish plant with reddish leaves. Although the name sounds derogatory, it stems from the belief that many plants in the lousewort genus could rid homes and pets of lice, another myth exploded by reality. All our louseworts (including the famous Elephant’s Head) are in the Snapdragon Family and are thus distant cousins to Indian paintbrushes. Just about ¼ mile in, near a stream area, note Bugbane on your left. This plant, about 3 ft. tall, is visually rare along Northwest trails. It stands out as a spiky white specimen because the actual flowers are tiny but an army of stamens points outward as the most visible feature of the plant. Do not be deceived by its name: it has never protected anyone I know from the biting flies and mosquitoes common in these woods.

The delightful Avalanche Lily peppers the open woods here and although its white flowers droop, they have nothing to be ashamed of. Note the bright yellow centers of these close siblings of the Glacier Lily, which is totally yellow. As you turn right briefly onto the PCT, then almost immediately left onto the Timberline Trail, you may note the delightful Queen’s Cup Lily, a white six-petalled flower resting amidst a cluster of thin parallel-leaved leaves. Parts in sixes or threes usually denote the Lily, Iris, and Orchid Families, quite different in their evolution from most flowering plants, which hold their parts in fours or fives.

You labor upwards here gradually at first and should locate several examples of Merten’s Coral Root, a saprophyte all red and straw in color, lacking the need for any green chlorophyll but making its living off fungi and bacteria in the shaded soil. We have two other Coral Roots in our woodlands – Striped and Spotted. All are actually in the Orchid Family but I’m afraid tropical inhabitants might look down their noses at these compared to their large and colorful cousins down south.

In the transition zones here between forest and meadow, at around 6,000 ft. elevation, blue Jacob’s Ladder graces the sides of the trail. A Phlox Family species, it can be recognized by its ladder-like arrangement of leaves growing up its stems and by the charming sky-blue flowers nodding at the ends of its 6-9” stems. A close cousin, Sky Pilot, grows even higher in our alpine regions. Rub the leaves of either to smell their carrion-like odor, quite in contrast to their pleasant appearance. The trashy smell attracts the flies which pollinate this lovely plant.

You now proceed into the lush west-side meadows so characteristic of the high Cascades. Bear Grass, here up to 10 ft. tall, lends a subtle lily-like perfume, while blue Lupines and crimson Tall Paintbrush paint the meadows by a series of large boulders (note several Tiger Lilies on your left here as well) with spectacular views of Hood’s west face and the Sandy River drainage basin. After several miles on the Timberline Trail, look to your right just after a sharp left bend in the trail to catch the steep spur to McNeil Point Shelter. Walk through a crushing maze of daisy-like pink Cascade Asters and yellow Sawtooth Groundsels (or Senecios), these last with triangular sharply-toothed leaves, along with battalions of Sitka Valerians, the common white-topped plant of alpine meadows. Some of the asters and groundesls are taller than most hikers, giving the feeling of swimming through a floral sea. The rude path steepens here but the way is brightened by the many red and yellow Columbines you pass as you near the shelter.

But do not stop there. A few minutes hike above McNeil Shelter brings you to even grander viewpoints and the presence of my favorite lupine – Lyall’s, or the Sub-alpine Lupine (also called Lobb’s Lupine). The silvery-green leaves provide a gorgeous backdrop for the tiny blue and white pea-like flowers common to all lupines but in miniature: a jewel amongst the giants below. You can continue on an unofficial but well-maintained trail to complete a loop, and thus marvel at scarlet Paintbrushes; blue Lupines; Drummond’s Cinquefoils (the small yellow flowers); and the seedheads of the Western Anemone, with its dusty mop atop 2 ft. tall stems looking for all the world like the grey messy hair of the old man of the mountains. Many Avalanche Lilies will still populate crannies by trailside rocks and, as you descend through woods, the daisy-like yellow heads of Broad-leaf Arnica stand out against the monotone of green.

At several ponds at around 6,500 ft., often dry by mid-August, you will be rewarded with the sight of Fringed Gentian, a 2-ft. tall plant with petals the deepest of blues and green spots held upright and with fringes on each of their edges. In the woods below, just before you rejoin the Timberline Trail, there are two stream crossings which feature large gatherings of two Monkey Flowers: The yellow one is Mountain (or Tilinget’s) Monkey Flower, here mixed vibrantly with the shocking pink of Lewis’ Monkey Flower. These two line streambeds throughout our mountains; monkey flowers are also members of the Snapdragon Family, although their resemblance to an ape escapes me.

This loop often contains patches of snow throughout the summer, especially as it traverses meadows beyond the hut. However, ample footsteps and by-passes preclude the need for an ice ax. The way is only steep and rough in places just below the hut; otherwise, the trails are broad, relatively gentle, view-filled, and provide one of the best alpine flower shows in our state. If you’re not off on a climb and have a free day in July or August, this loop should not be missed.

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Nepal – How Can You Help

We are all by now aware of the disastrous earthquake events that struck the Himalaya on April 25, 2015. We are only just now starting to make contact with our friends and business associates in Nepal. While we grieve for the dead and the wounded there, and mourn the loss of priceless and timeless architecture, and worry for the safety and health of the survivors, we can’t help but ask ourselves, “how can we help?”


The message from our friends in Nepal is clear: “come to us. Come and experience our world-famous trekking, and in so doing, help us to recover our financial stability.” For some of us, that may turn out to be the best sort of financial aid we can offer.

Mazamas is currently offering a 19-day outing to the Annapurna Region of Nepal, scheduled for October 26, 2015 to November 13, 2015, during which we will visit the famed Annapurna Sanctuary, the very heart of that incredible massif, there staying at two climbing base camps each located at elevations of just under 14,000 ft., and touching at numerous Magar, Gurung and Tamang villages along the way. It will be a splendid way to experience for yourself the resilience of these cheerful, hardy mountain people, knowing that by your presence you are helping them in the most concrete of ways to recover from this disaster.

An informational meeting is scheduled for 6 p.m. on Thursday, May 28, 2015 at the Mazama Mountaineering Center If you are interested in visiting this region, now is as good a time as there ever has been to do so. Please join us on the 28th and see if this is a way you can help. RSVP on Facebook.

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An Abbreviated Flower Finder for Dog Mountain in May

by Barry Maletzky
Northwest Balsamroots
There exists no finer month than May to sample the floral
glories on the various legs of the Dog Mountain. While it would take many pages to
describe the more than 50 species of wildflowers present alongside these
trails, perhaps you might be interested in brief descriptions of some of the
more prominent species inhabiting these slopes. I will describe my favorite
routes on Dog – up the steeper west-side trail, then down the gentler east-side
loop:
Surely every hiker and climber is aware of the
overwhelming display of Northwest Balsamroots in the meadows approaching the
summit of Dog, reaching their peak during the second-to-third week of the month.
However, some of the lesser-known flowers can be enjoyed throughout the month
by those with a somewhat smaller eye and an appreciation for their delicate
architecture and singular beauty, even though they are less abundantly-massed
than the Balsamroots mentioned above.
Broadleaf Lupine (Lupinus latifolius)
Even in the parking lot, one can enjoy the well-known
Broad-leaf Lupines so common in so many locales in the Northwest. Note the
palm-shaped arrangement of their leaves; often a spot of dew resides at their
center, like a diamond jewel held in their leafy hands. As you trudge the road
and begin the trial proper, that tall shrub with bluish flowers may masquerade
as a lilac but is actually a ceanothus, this one commonly called Deer Brush,
somewhat ignominiously growing quite close to the outhouse. In the woods as you
begin the trail, note the many small, pinkish-to-white low-growing Star
Flowers, well-named as they sparkle against the monotone of green underneath.
Blue-eyed Mary’s
Further up these switchbacks, openings at about 650-750
ft. of elevation display Small-flowered Blue-eyed Mary’s, accompanied by small
white flowers with golden central “eyes”. These, unfairly, lack a common name
and are referred to by the Latin moniker of Common Cryptantha. That tall white
daisy plant decorating both sides of the trail here is Western White Groundsel
(or Senecio) while much smaller, but of more colorful character,
Herald-of-Summer (or more depressingly named Farewell-to-Spring) hews to the
ground on your right. This last combines charming shades of pink on its petals
but with bold red splotches toward the center of the flower.
Hooker’s Fairy Bells
On the plateau at about 850 ft., the predominant flower
is Hooker’s Fairy Bells. You will need to

peek underneath its drooping pointy
leaves to discover the shy white bell-shaped flowers which lend their name to
this brushy 3-ft. tall plant. Also on this plateau, a most unusual saprophyte
exists, ghostly white throughout. It is the Phantom Orchid, rarely seen except
in a narrow longitudinal range along the eastern crest of the Cascades. Saprophytes
such as the three Coral Roots (also in the Orchid Family) inhabiting out
forests, lack chlorophyll and thus are not green in any of their parts; they
have no need of sunlight as they are fully sustained by the fungi and bacteria
in the soil which supply minerals and water to the pant in exchange for the
carbohydrates the saprophyte supplies to them. We do have other orchids in our
mountains, though they cannot rival in color or size those of tropical realms.
One such may still be out in the forests of early May between 900 and 2,000
ft., the beloved Calypso Orchid (or Fairy Slipper), with its diminutive pink
tongue and red-spotted petals.

Fairy Orchid (Calypso Orchid)
More switchbacks bring one to a second plateau at 1,400
ft. Here, that white multi-petalled flower is the Columbia Gorge Windflower,
actually an anemone closely related to the blue Oregon Anemone so common high
on Nick Eaton Ridge. All anemones are in the Buttercup Family, a reminder that
floral and leaf appearance do not correlate well with family membership – not
so different than in our human families as well.
Dutchman’s Breeches
After the sign and convenient bench at 1,900 ft., early
in May look for the fancifully-named Dutchman’s Breeches, especially on the
right as you steeply ascend the trail, then make a right-hand turn at 2,000 ft.
With some imagination, these Bleeding Heart relatives do look amazingly like
the upturned pantaloons commonly depicted in paintings of 17th
Century Holland. After this turn, and accompanying you through the steep uphill
trail from 2,100 to 2,300 ft. are yellow Stream (or Wood) Violets (most of our
violets, despite their name, are yellow) and its frequent companion, Candy
Flower, with white petals softly engraved with peppermint-like pencil-thin pink
stripes.
Beyond, after the right turn at 2,300 ft., lie the
meadows so often decorating calendars and wildflower book covers. But look
beyond the maze of Balsamroots to find the fuzzy purple flowers of Ball-head
Phacelia, especially early in the month. As you pass Windy Point (or The Puppy)
at 2,500 ft., gaze up to your right at the towering fins of basalt at around
2,700 ft. to spot the shocking pink of Rock Penstemon, a plant that adheres to
rock outcroppings here and on Table Mountain. It should be awarded the honor of
“most colorful” amongst the many blooms you will find along these Gorge trails
(think Vera Wang and Versace, not Old Navy or REI). At top, the shiny yellow
flowers decorating the well-trodden meadows are Western Buttercups.
Death Camas
Down the east-side trail beyond the sign and bench at
1,900 ft., a few Calypso Orchids may still be in bloom at 1,850 ft.  Just before arriving at the glorious opening
at 1,750 ft., look to your left for a mass of pink blooms called Rosy
Plectritis populating a meadow, then immediately check the next meadow to your
right for a view of Death Camas. Appearing as a miniature version of
Bear-grass, to which it is distantly related, this Lily Family plant lives up
to its name: Several folks have been known to have been done in by eating an
excess of the bulbs of these plants, mistaking them for real Camas before they
bloomed and showed their true colors. Watch here too for the rare Bicolored
Cluster Lily, with faintly blue petals each streaked with a line of deeper blue
down its middle.
Western Groundsel
Down in the forest, most flowers are absent but openings
at about 1,100 ft. display Blue-eyed Mary’s, white Western Groundsel (which
strangely is yellow west of the Crest), and the raggedy small flowers of
Prairie Star, pink-to-white with tri-cleft petals. That white flower hugging
the sandy soil is Woods Strawberry and its fruit, if available, should
definitely be sampled. No poison here!
So many other flowers are to be found on Dog throughout
the spring and summer than can be listed here. But even if you don’t know their
names or the families and genera to which they belong, don’t fail to enjoy this
trip. No able-bodied Mazama should fail to sample these floral delights on the
Dog in May.

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How is the Mazamas Governed?

Do you know how Mazamas is governed? Each October members elect three new members to three-year terms on the nine-member Executive Council. The Nominating Committee selects 4-6 candidates to run based on their experience and the unique skills they can bring to making tough decisions about how the organization is managed. Are you interested in serving on the Executive Council or do you know someone you think would do a great job?

Since the Nominating Committee was formed, progress has been made toward the objective of significantly improving the annual EC nominee selection process. We aspire to include all Mazamas members and to identify and target those with skill sets that will best serve the organization now and in the future.

The Nominating Committee has worked with the past and current Executive Councils to define the skills and attributes that would ideally be present on the council at any given time. The Nominating Committee has been using a database that was created with member self-defined professional skillsets to recruit for council, but this database only includes the subset of the membership who completed a survey. As such, we are now reaching out to encourage members with the skills below to get in touch with the Nominating Committee to learn more about running for the Executive Council.

We strive to always have climb leader representation as well as members with other significant Mazama experience/involvement on the Executive Council. There are also technical and other skill sets that must be present to ensure that the organizational fiduciary and oversight responsibility is being met.

We’re currently seeking members with skills in the following areas:

  • Board Governance/Board Leadership Experience: Past board experience
  • “Big Picture” Strategic Thinkers: For example, business owners, management consultants, organizational development consultants, directors, VPs, CEOs, fundraising strategy experience
  • Legal: We’re seeking a lawyer with relevant experience (e.g. non-profit, general commercial/corporate, ideally with prior board experience)
  • Finance: This remains a critical area, as we’ve identified this as an area that would ideally be represented in more than one person to have a pipeline for treasurer. Targeted skills include: non-profit experience, fund accounting, restricted funds, accrual accounting, budgeting experience, CPA (experience in the following type of positions would be great: Controller, VP Finance, CFO)
  • Management/Leadership Experience: Experience managing a staff, w/ hiring and firing decisions, setting performance goals & holding staff accountable, handling corrective action, and employment relations issues, understanding of human resources issues, compliance and risk management 

Executive Council service is a great way to give back to the organization, but it is also a wonderful professional development opportunity. It can provide valuable experience and help position you for future leadership positions in your professional career. Executive council positions can also be great for those who are retired from positions such as those mentioned above.

The bylaws require that a person has been a Mazama member for three years to run for the Executive Council. If you have one or a mixture of the skills above, please contact Matt Carter (mdcarter@opusnet.com), Nominating Committee chair as soon as possible to discuss your interest and to learn more about the process. We look forward to hearing from you!!

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National Volunteer Week

This week (April 12-18) is National Volunteer Week, when organizations and institutions across the country celebrate their volunteers and the spirit of service. As a volunteer-run organization, every week is volunteer week at the Mazamas, but we’re taking some extra time this week to share some extra love with our volunteers. We love Mazama volunteers because they …

Go the extra mile – Literally! Just this week,
our volunteers are logging 1,100 foot-miles leading hikes for BCEP, Trail Trips
and the 20s&30s Mazamas group.



20s&30s Mazamas hike at Silver Falls State Park, Photo by Sándor Lau

Have a great sense of adventure – Recently, our
newest climb leader, Leora Gregory, tied the knot with her sweetie, Jay
Avery, on the summit of Mt. Hood.

 

Summit kiss, Photo by Candi Cook

Are kind and nurturing – From helping new
climbers ease off a belay ledge for their first rappel; to tenderly planting
baby trees to re-establish habitat, Mazama volunteers put a ton of love and
caring into their work.

BCEP Student Rappels at Horsethief, Photo by Steve Heikkila

Volunteers planting saplings along the Sandy River, Photo by Corinne Handelman

Love to have fun – What keeps volunteers coming
back year after year is all the fun they have while volunteering. There’s plain
silly fun,

Honey Badgers on Mt. Hood, Photo by Benjamin Grandy

and then there’s “Type II” fun

Blustery day on Table Mountain, Photo by Craig Karls

Provide an important community service – Our volunteers support Mazama classes, programs and activities; they also do important work to preserve and protect the places we play.

Rebolting at Broughton Bluff, Photo by Adam Baylor


Don’t mind getting dirty – Let’s face it, we all became mountaineers because we like to play in the mud!

Trail Tending is dirty business, Photo by Kati Mayfield

Thanks to over 600 volunteers each year giving 110%, the Mazamas is able to provide high quality, low-cost mountaineering education, activities and community events. Thank you, thank you, a million times thank you to our volunteers.
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RTM: The Magic of a Journey around Mt. Hood

As of April 13, 2015 there are spaces available for the 2015 RTM trip. Link to register: http://mazamas.org/activities-events/round-the-mountain/

The author, Michele, had carried her water shoes 3/4 of the way around this
mountain and was determined to use them on at least one stream crossing!

RTM: One Woman’s Journey

by Michele Crim

Every year my husband Glenn and I plan at least one mystery vacation for each other.

We plan a special outing and the other person doesn’t know what it is until it happens. I stole this idea from a co-worker who does this with his partner and I thought it was brilliant!
This past Labor Day weekend was our 14-year wedding anniversary so I decided to plan a mystery vacation for Glenn in celebration. I heard about this event hosted by the Mazamas called “Round the Mountain” where you hike all the way around Mt. Hood from a friend that had done it a year or two before.

The route around the mountain is broken up into three sections. Each day you hike one of the ~15 mile sections and return to the Mazama lodge in the evening for a hot meal, shower and a bed. The next morning you get a hot breakfast and then you return to the trailhead so you can hike the next section. Wash, rinse, repeat. It sounded like a perfect mystery vacation, so I signed us up!
Soon thereafter, I walked out of the orientation for the event with my heart in my throat.

Working my way across our first Sandy River crossing.
I got a little dizzy until I figured out to focus on
the log and my feet, not the rushing water below!
They spent much of the orientation focused on the amount of physical conditioning one needed to do in order to survive the adventure—or at the very least have it be an enjoyable experience. The leaders said it was the equivalent of hiking Dog Mountain … twice a day … three days in a row. Ugh! Hiking Dog Mountain just once a year is a significant accomplishment in my book.

To be fair to Glenn I knew I couldn’t wait until the last moment to unveil my mystery vacation.
I had to spill my secret sooner rather than later, as Glenn and I were going to need to get some significant hikes at altitude under our belts in preparation. And we did! We hiked to Tom Dick and Harry Mountain and up Dog Mountain. We did the Lost Lake Chuck Wagon (also with the Mazamas), got lost on the way to Larch Mountain, and spent a week hiking in the Olympic National Park/Forest.

By the time the event arrived I felt like we had done a great job of preparing our feet, legs and lungs to carry us long distances high up on a mountain.

On Friday I arrived at the Mazamas lodge (near Government Camp and Timberline Lodge) with great trepidation. Not only was I anxious about the hikes (Will I be able to do it three days in a row? Will I be so slow that everyone will have to wait for me?), but my social anxiety was in high gear and I was worried about meeting the strangers I would be spending the next three days with. 
 The participants were divided into six groups of 12 people consisting of 10 hikers and two team leaders that serve as guides. Each group has a different pace from a more gentle “scenic” pace to a blistering “I’m walking so fast it’s all a blur” pace, and everything in between.

We ended up in a great group with a nice moderate pace that we could sustain over the 45-mile loop. Our group was made up of funny, interesting people who were very supportive of each other. We were also thrilled to find that my idol and inspiration, Gwen, was there for the event (I so want to be like her when I grow up!). We met Gwen on Lost Lake Chuckwagon Weekend a couple of months ago. She had gifted herself a 25-mile hiking adventure for her 70th birthday (although she hadn’t been hiking in over a decade), and was now out burning through 45 miles of trails all the way around the mountain. She rocks.

Our hiking group—one of six similar teams working
their way around the mountain over the weekend.
All of our physical conditioning paid off and not only were we able to accomplish something that I never would have dreamed possible, but we had a blast doing it! 
Although the Mazamas hiking route doesn’t make a continuous circuit around the mountain (there are some sections, such as the Eliot Glacier landslide area, that aren’t safe to cross with such a group) it covers most of it.

Before this hike, my experience with Mt. Hood was as the mountain I drove past to get to Bend or that I could occasionally see in the distance out my window at work. After this hike, I feel like I know the mountain in a much more intimate way.
Each side of the mountain has its own distinct personality varying greatly by terrain, vegetation and weather. 
Day One: Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap
To put it mildly, the weather on our first day was miserable! It was cold, rainy and windy. Glenn and I spent most of the day dressed head to toe in rain gear and by the end we were soaking wet and cold. This was also the day we were on the east side of the mountain at the highest elevations of the weekend, crossing slippery snowfields and exposed ridges with no vegetation. We were battered by freezing rain and ~50 mph wind gusts on top of Gnarl Ridge (gnarly ridge, more like it) that were strong enough to actually blow you off the trail. Although it was cold and miserable and clouds obscured the views, this was actually one of my favorite days of hiking. It was exciting to be out there battling the elements and making the most out of the crazy expedition.

Day Two: Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls
The weather improved slightly the second day. It wasn’t as cold or windy, but we still spent much of the day in our rain gear walking through sporadic rains and misty clouds. In many ways this day’s hiking was the hardest for me. We started high on the mountain and ended at a much lower elevation. My knees and ankles were very sore and tired from the miles and miles of downhill.
I spent much of the day stressed about the Sandy River crossings. The Sandy River is a deceptively fast moving river that can be quite dangerous to cross at times. A couple of weeks ago there were some flash floods that took out the foot bridge over the river on the Ramona Falls trail. Sadly, a man was killed there when the bridge washed out while he was on it. We knew the bridge was gone, which meant we’d have to make it across the river some other way (twice). I spent many miles on the trail envisioning falling into the river! In the end we used logs and were able to make it across safely.

Day Three: Top Spur to Elk Cove
The weather was beautiful on our third day. As such, this hike was the most spectacular in terms of views of the mountain peak as well as the surrounding countryside. The wildflowers were amazing and sections of the hike went through areas burned by the Dollar Lake Fire (2011). I was mesmerized by the beauty and eeriness of walking through stands of silver-white dead trees with a green carpet of new plants at their feet and bright blue skies above their tops.

We had a ton of fun and I would highly recommend the Round the Mountain event hosted by the Mazamas. Both Glenn and I want to thank Robyn our friend who originally suggested the trip, as well as our other team members and especially our group leaders Aaron and Chris for such an amazing time. It’s an experience we’ll never forget and one that we hope to do again next year!

To read more about Michele’s adventures including the Mazama Lost Lake Chuckwagon Weekend see her blog A Life More Extraordinary, www.alifemoreextraordinary.net
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CISM Team in Nepal: What Does it take to Build a Climbing Center?

by Mike Pajunas
The Khumbu region of Nepal is well known as the location of many beautiful Himalayan mountains: Ama Dablam, Mt. Everest and Lhotse to name a few. The Sherpa people, native to the Khumbu Region have been risking their lives for many years working for high altitude expeditions as guides and porters. Death in the Himalayas and especially Mt. Everest is a too common occurrence, particularly for the Sherpa men who do the dangerous icefall routing up the Khumbu Icefall.
 Mike with Lhakpa Dorji, Lodge Owner.
Photo: Marina Wynton
The idea for the Khumbu Climbing Center was conceived in 2003 by Jennie Lowe Anker and her husband Conrad Anker, a well known mountain climber. The Ankers, founders of The Alex Lowe Charitable Fund (ALCF), wanted to create the climbing school in the village of Phortse as more Sherpa wanted to work on Mt.Everest, but needed mountaineering training to do it safely. A two week course was set up using Western climbers to teach climbing skills, mountain safety, rescue and English language. The school has been very successful, more than 1000 students, men and women, have attended the course.
In 2007 the KCC Board began work on design of a building for the climbing school so it could operate year round. The building would have indoor and outdoor climbing walls, meeting space for the school and community, office, library, kitchen, and showers.
Two families who own lodges in Phortse donated the land for the building. Over three years a group of graduate architecture students at Montana State University under the instruction of Professor Mike Everts went through a design process considering siting, design aspects and cultural considerations. Priorities were to create the first earthquake resistant structure in the Khumbu and to use a passive solar system. Gabion wire cages would be used to strengthen dry stack stone walls. Local building materials would be quarried stone from the village hillside. In 2009 the first team of MSU graduate students went to Phortse to begin construction. The team was lead by architect, Dean Soderberg, who also worked on the design as a grad student. Dean has gone back each fall season since to oversee construction. Dean has given a year and a half of his time to building the KCC over the last 6 years. Tim Harrington, a building contractor from Boulder, CO, is the spring season construction leader.
Phortse. Photo: Marina Wynton
The Mazamas became involved in 2013 when Conrad Anker visited Portland and spoke at the annual Porltand Alpine Fest. Mazamas held a fundraising event for the KCC and successfully raised money for the project. In April 2014 an avalanche struck a group of Sherpa establishing the route through the Khumbu Icefall and 16 Sherpa were killed. The Mazamas Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) team was asked by the Ankers to provide grief support to the families of the killed workers. The KCC could also use more construction help as the building was still only about 30 percent complete. I was able to accompany the CISM team to Nepal with the help of Jennie Lowe Anker and the ALCF. 
Departing Oct. 25, 2014, it took two long days to get to Katmandu. It took three days for me to get there with passport problems. But that’s another story. It was a great adventure, made better as we went to help the Nepali people in ways we each could. There is a wonderful feeling in the beginning of a journey, the excitement of the unknown and living in the moment. 
The entrance to the Khumbu is a narrow mountainous gateway accessible by a small prop plane. Symbolically a small prop plane fights its way for more elevation to gain access to a high mountain pass before fast moving clouds close the gateway in. Lukla Airport at an elevation of 8,500 feet is (roll of the dice) a tilted landing strip perched on a high mountain side. A rock wall located at the end of the landing strip forces planes to break hard and turn right quickly. Very exciting!
Yak Train. Photo: Marina Wynton.
The trek into the Humbug began from Lukla. The trek is a blur of time and a moment clear as the mountain high sky. Walking down stone paths, stairs up and down, stone houses made by hand, everything made by hand, many trekkers from many countries: German, French, Japanese, American, and Canadian. Yak trains of goods heading up valley. Porters carrying everything … six sheets of plywood, mattresses 7 feet high, a kitchen counter and sink (one load), a man-sized bundle of bamboo shoots for dinner, cases of beer and boxes of noodles, the trail is the main highway for all people and goods traveling the Khumbu. This trekking trail follows the beautiful Duh Kosi River (translated it means “milky river”) through forests of Himalayan pine, hemlock, beech and rhododendron. Village tea houses, lodges and homes nestle closely to the trail, made of hand quarried basalt; dry stacked with corrugated metal roofs and brightly painted wood frame windows. A door or curtain is often open with children peaking out shyly. Chickens and dogs freely roam the stone path. Suspension bridges provide some excitement as the trail eventually leaves the river. Climbing breathlessly out of the river valley for 2,700 feet to Namche Bazaar, the largest village in the Khumbu, at an elevation of 11, 300 feet The trekking day is very long and strenuous: seven miles up in seven hours over very rugged terrain. Everyone is very tired. 
Mike heading to Namche.
Namche at night reminds me of Christmas. This beautiful village is nestled in a hillside high above a dark forested valley. The glacier-covered mountain Kongle Ri 20,000 feet shines in the background under the moonlight sky. The lights of lodges twinkle in the crisp, clean, cold mountain air: it’s stunningly beautifully. It’s a gift to be here.
We stay at The Panorama Lodge. Sherep Jangbu and Lhapka Sherpa, the lodge owners, greet us as we drop our packs and enter the tea house. It is an amazing feeling to be here and to be expected as guests. As soon as we are seated on benches along the windows overlooking the village, large thermoses of tea are brought out. I find on this trip that you hardly need water as you have so many cups of tea with lunch and dinner. It is a pleasure to hike then sit in a tea house, relax with tea and begin again. I believe Marina my wife, said it well when she mentioned a meditative walking, like a daily practice and a necessity, as this is how you travel here. So embrace the walk and be happy in the morning sunshine. Everyone takes a day off from the trek in Namche to rest up and acclimatize. We wander the bazaar, the shops, visit the local monastery and the park devoted to natural history and Tensing Norgay.
The next day I departed for Phortse with a porter. The CISM team is traveling in a different direction, so I am on my own now. The trail above Namche traverses a broad hillside where you begin to feel the size of nature here. The pine trees are stunted and soon disappear. Azaleas and grass cover the sub alpine ground on the way to Mong La at 13,000 feet. This small village pass (La means pass) is very scenic, overlooking the Duh Koshi River thousands of feet below and the peaks of 20,700 foot Thamserku and 20,857 foot Kantega 20,857 rising above. Turn the corner at this pass and drop down through spectacular giant fir trees and into a rhododendron forest and all the way down to a gorgeous river valley. Then it’s back up the hillside through beech forests and you pop out of the woods to be greeted by stacks on mani stones and a white stupa. This is Phortse. Blue pheasants and crows hop along in the tree tops and yaks graze at the edge of the trail on the steep hillside. 
Road to Namch – Mani Stones & Prayer
Wheel.
The lower end of the village just above the fields is where the two lodges, the Namaste and Phortse Guest house are located. The KCC building is between the lodges on land given by the owners of both lodges.
I entered the tea house at Namaste Lodge and was met by Lhakpa Dorji, the gracious lodge owner and former Mt. Everest guide and his wife Nawang. I was welcomed with tea by his daughter, Fu Doma, and shown a sunny, warm room to stash my gear. 
Khumbu Climbing Center Construction.
After settling in at the lodge I found Dean working on site. Dean gave me the tour of the building in construction: including gabion wrapped rock footings; an immense back wall of the building standing about 18 foot high and 3 feet thick for the first 8 feet in height. Wooden posts support steel floor joists for the second floor. On the second floor there will be library and class room space. There is an engineered truss connecting the front and back walls that will shorten the roof span. This is critical as available steel must be considered for length and weight when building by hand. The building is about 30 percent complete. Floors, roof, exterior walls, windows are yet to be built. The interior walls will have foam insulation board with a plywood finish panel. One-eighth or one-quarter inch plywood is typical wall finish material for teahouses or lodge rooms in the Khumbu. Since there will be no stud wall framing against the gabion walls the plywood finish material will be three-quarter inch plywood. How the plywood will attach to the gabion walls is yet to be determined. The floor material on the ground floor will be cement pavers (made in Katmandu and transported by plane and yak) or slate. Once all houses in the Khumbu had slate roofs. Slowly slate is being replaced by corrugated steel painted red or green. Slate is locally quarried and a historic building material, so I think slate is the right choice for flooring of the KCC. Sand and gravel are sifted from the river below the village and hand carried up to the site. The flooring concrete pavers or slate flooring will be dry set with sand. Cement mortar is very expensive ($90) for an 80 pound bag

and would be transported by plane and yak from Katmandu, adding to the cost. The building has

gabion wire cages filled with rocks for exterior walls since cement for dry stacking is very costly and stone without cement would not withstand earthquake movement. Gabion wire cages take the place of cement. The traditional stone building method in the Khumbu is mortar joints or tight fitting perfectly chiseled granite blocks for strength and concrete pillars for corners in multi-story buildings. This type of construction for the KCC was ruled out as too expensive.
We toured the village quarry located on an adjacent hillside behind a beech forest. It was quiet as the
Khumbu Climbing Center Construction.

stone masons hadn’t arrived yet and the quarry had not opened yet for the season. The quarried rock is split by pounding sharpened and case-hardened pipe into buried boulders, creating a series of holes until something gives way.

For the next seven days Dean and I worked on finalizing wall elevations, erecting steel wall supports and re-building the top of a 35 foot long gabion wall for the final cement cap. The Nepali stone masons arrived part way through the week and began chipping quarried rock into useable building blocks. Each day the workers case-hardened their tools with a small wood coal fire and a bellows. Now and then I would look up at the mountains around Phortse while I was working, pause and think wow, I’m in Nepal!
We began each day with a family style breakfast made by Fu Dome and Nawang. Omelets, french toast, Sherpa toast with cherry jam from China. A note from my journal says “honey is good, butter is sparse, jam is from China.” One morning we had warm goat milk with a grain. I asked Dean, “what’s this?” He said, “cornflakes.” He got me there. 
Khumbu Climbing Center Construction.
I went for early morning walks around the village as the sun came up to experience the ‘being there’ moments. The frosted grass, the silence, the ancient stupas of the lower fields and the monastery always on the highest sacred ground. I didn’t get to experience the Everest Trek like so many we met on the trail. But for me, this time in Phortse was very special since I was here to begin each day, see the sun rise, the smoke rising from the houses at dawn, to encounter the one-horned bull (and stand aside!) and to be with the friendly Sherpa people who make their lives here. I felt very at home in Phortse. 
Marina and her guide Karki arrived in Phortse several days later. The CISM team had been trekking from village to village visiting with families. The other members of the team had already begun the return trek. I was very happy to see my wife’s smiling face again in this marvelous place. While I worked, Marina had time to wander the village and fields in the sunshine, visit the local monastery and the children’s library, read, do our laundry (in a big bowl of hot water outside) and rest up for the return trek. 
Khumbu Climbing Center Construction.
At the Namaste Lodge, Lhapka and Nawang work very hard to feed everyone and make sure we are comfortable. The walls of the dining room are solid with family photos, photos of Lhakpa and Nawang as a young couple with their children and photos of Lhakpa as an Everest guide. Lhapka has a great, hearty laugh and a big smile for everyone. At night we sit on benches at tables, drinking tea, beer, and having dinner. Dinner may be Sherpa Stew, Dal Bhat, fried macaroni, chicken chow mein. The room is filled with German and Norwegian trekkers, Nepali porters, village neighbors and us. 
We pass the time playing a new card game called Kings Corner and wait for the yak dung-fired wood stove to heat the room. But the night is longer than the day and we were usually very tired after a long day of construction and would go to bed early. Rooms are very small and very cold at night as the rooms are uninsulated and unheated. Before entering the room, one quickly uses the bathroom and get into the sleeping bag pronto to read a while with a headlamp. I didn’t have enough warm clothes to stay outside for very long at night and often a cloud layer or fog would move in to obstruct the night sky.

It was a great experience to go to a place where Shangri-la could be found. Nepal is an amazing place with wonderful, gracious people. I’m hoping to return in the fall, meet up with Dean and get back to work continuing the construction of the KCC. 

Thank you!

The CISM Committee and the Mazamas would like to thank the many wonderful sponsors and donors that help make this trip possible. Thanks go to:
  • Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation
  • Lhakpa Gelu Foundation
  • CAMP
  • Cassin
  • Mountain Hardwear
  • Base Camp Brewing Company
  • Columbia Sportswear
  • The Mountain Shop
  • Mazama Members
  • Petzl
  • Sterling Rope
  • Karma Cafe & Coffee Shop
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Where Should I Climb Indoors?

In the Portland/Metro area we are lucky to have six gyms to choose from where we can hone our climbing skills. We reached out to all of the gyms to provide you with this brief guide on where to climb. Each gym provided their stats as well as a brief write-up about why you should climb at their gym. 

ClubSport Ascent Climbing Center

Stats
  • Wall square footage: 11,500 sq. feet textured climbing surface.
  • Height: 25–45 feet.
  • Bouldering, top roping, lead climbing—wide variety of terrain, cracks and overhangs.
  • Host of four national youth competitions and local competitions.
  • Other amenities: full service restaurant and bar; childcare available at a small additional charge.
  • Hours: M-F 6 a.m.–11 p.m., Sat 8 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 8 a.m.–6 p.m.

Location/Info
18120 SW Lower Boones Ferry Road,
Tigard, OR.
clubsports.com/oregon/climbing-center

Rates
Day: $16

Punch pass: $99 (11-punch pass; no expiration)

Featuring a new name, ClubSport has been offering a state of the art climbing facility since the mid 1990s when it took over a space that was a former Costco store. During its long history, it has managed to create a consistent tradition of great route setting and programming. One common misconception about ClubSport is that you have to have a membership to climb there. The climbing center has an affordable day pass and a multi-punch card option which now features no expiration. Check out the rock gym’s new 360 cam tour on the website. 

The Circuit

Stats


  • Wall square footage: 10,000 sq. feet (SW), 14,000 sq. feet (NE), 19,000 sq. feet (Tigard).
  • Height: 14 feet (SW), 8–17 feet (NE), 14 feet (Tigard).
  • Bouldering.
  • Other amenities (varies by location): Training & fitness areas, slacklines, dedicated kids area, yoga.
  • Hours: varies by location.

Location/Info
NE: 410 NE 17th Ave., Portland, OR.
SW: 6050 SW Macadam, Ave., Portland, OR.
Tigard: 16255 SW Upper Boones Ferry Road, Tigard, OR.
thecircuitgym.com

Rates
  • Day: $14/$12 student
  • Month: $67/$57 student/$137 family of three; with EFT contract (11-month minimum) $57/$47 student/$117 family of three
  • Punch pass: $112/$96 student (10 punch pass, no expiration)
  • Annual prepaid: $579/$479 student

Planet Granite


Stats


  • Wall square footage: 30,500 sq. feet; 18,000 holds
  • 150+ routes, 200+ boulder problems
  • 18 cracks (4 adjustable)
  • Height: 55-foot roped walls; 18-foot ball boulder.
  • Other amenities: Two yoga and fitness studios, two comprehensive training areas, one bouldering ramp, showers/towels, lockers, dry sauna.
  • Hours: M-F 6 a.m.–11 p.m., Sat 8 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 8 a.m.–6 p.m.

Location/Info
1405 NW 14th Ave., Portland, OR.
planetgranite.com/locations/portland/pdx_faq.php

Rates
  • Day: $18/$14 student/$12 child
  • Morning pass: $14
  • Month: $77/$62 student/$120 family of two
  • Punch pass: $165, 10-punch
  • Annual: $847/$682 student/$1,320 family of two

Planet Granite was founded in the Bay Area in 1994 as an elite training facility for climbers at a time when few other such businesses existed. It started simply as an idea that climbers, this small fringe group of athletes, deserved a world-class facility with sport specific training including climbing, yoga and fitness. Our founder, Micky Lloyd, was among the first to design and build climbing specific training tools like hydraulically operable walls and adjustable cracks. 

In the 20 years since we opened, Planet Granite has grown to become a place not only used by some of the best climbers in the world to train, but also a place to introduce beginners to a sport we love. 

The new Portland facility features 20,000 square feet of custom Walltopia designs for roped climbing up to 55 feet high, including 18 cracks, four of which are hydraulically adjustable. The bouldering area includes 10,000 square feet of Walltopia’s signature 3D walls and 18-foot high ball bouldering. 

Two yoga and fitness studios in the facility will host a suite of studio-quality classes. Furthermore, a comprehensive training area, for both climbers and functional fitness enthusiasts alike, offers everything from Olympic weight lifting equipment to a variety of climbing specific tools such as an adjustable systems board and the Atomik Bombs.

Portland Rock Gym (PRG)


Stats

  • Wall square footage: 15,000 sq. feet; 
  • Up to 120 routes (60 lead, 60 top-rope)
  • Height: 40-foot top rope and lead walls
  • 150–180 boulder problems
  • Other amenities: Five True Blue auto-belay systems, Finger and System Boards, Pro Shop, Weight Room, Cardio Machines, Yoga Classes
  • Hours: M/W/F 11 a.m.–11 p.m., T/TH 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.–9 p.m., Sun. 9 a.m.–6 p.m.

Location/Info
21 NE 12th Ave., Portland, OR. 
portlandrockgym.com

Rates
  • Day: $15/$13 student/military
  • Day Pre-3 p.m. (M–F only): $10
  • Month: $63/$52 w/ annual contract or for students/$43 student w/ annual contract/$150 family of three
  • Punch pass: $135 (10-punch pass; 1–year expiration)
  • Annual prepaid: $572/$1276 families of three/$473 student/military


Founded by owner Gary Rall in 1988, the Portland Rock Gym is the second oldest indoor rock climbing gym in the country. With its mixture of rope climbing and bouldering, top-rope routes, and towering, overhanging lead walls, PRG offers a realistic climbing experience for beginning and experienced climbers alike. 

PRG continues to offer a world-class indoor climbing experience for beginning and experienced climbers alike. At any given time, you’ll find 150–180 boulder problems throughout the gym. There are approximately 60 lead and 60 top-rope lines allowing up to 120 routes at a given time.

Routes at PRG run the full gamut of grades. Currently, you’ll find most boulder problems in the V0-V6 range, and the majority of top-rope routes falling between 5.8 and 5.11-. Lead routes tend to average slightly higher. The variety of course setters and two month route rotation guarantee a positive experience no matter what your training goals. In addition, you’ll find a weight room, cardio machines, yoga classes, and various finger and system boards to round out your workout.

PRG has been a part of the Portland climbing community since it’s humble beginning back in 1988. Much of this success is due to the accessibility of PRG and the beginner-friendly atmosphere. We love being a part of Portland and sharing the positive benefits and fun of climbing with everyone. PRG has been locally owned and operated throughout its existence and plans to remain in Portland for many years to come. 




The Source



Stats

  • Wall Square footage: 6,200 sq feet
  • 68 routes, 34 top rope and lead lanes, 60+ boulder problems
  • Height: 36-foot top rope and lead, 20-foot youth wall, 14-foot bouldering, 10-foot youth bouldering
  • Other amenities: Autobelays, fully air-conditioned, warm-up mezzanine, student and family discounts, classes for every age and ability. 
  • Hours: M-F 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Sat 9 a.m.–9 p.m., Sun 9 a.m.–6 p.m.

Location/Info
1118 Main Street, Vancouver, WA.
sourceclimbing.com

Rates
  • Day: $12 
  • Month: $55/$46 EFT with $27 start up fee (no contract or cancellation fees; option to freeze)
  • Punch Pass: $96, 10-punch
  • Annual Prep-Paid: $472


Climbers go to the Source for great route-setting and friendly staff with flexible membership options in a clean, well-lit facility. The routes are set by active local climbers with as much as 30 years of outdoor climbing experience. The rates are affordable, and there are no cancellation fees or expiration dates. The community welcomes every climber, so don’t be surprised if they remember your name on your second visit. The Source is a sleek, modern facility you will enjoy climbing in. Consider a membership if you live/work in Vancouver, Camas, or north Portland. Otherwise, take advantage of the affordable 10-punch pass with no expiration date or sign up for one of our classes and clinics. The Source is located on Main Street in Vancouver only 15 minutes from downtown Portland, making it a great option for those needing a change of scene from their regular gym. 

Stoneworks

Stats
  • Height: 20–34 feet
  • Top route options include five auto belays, and eight manual belay.

Location/Info
6775 SW 111th Ave., Beaverton, OR.
belay.com

Rates
  • Day: $11/$10 college student
  • Month: $46/$40 college student
  • Punch pass: $40 5-punch; $68 10–punch (exp. 90 days)


An all-in-one climbing gym, Stoneworks has been open for climbers since 1993. We boast amazing lead terrain on our 34-foot walls that includes a 25-foot lead arch and a free hanging stalactite. Our top rope walls range in height from 34 feet to 20 feet and include five auto-belays and eight manual top roping stations, allowing everyone to try our naturally textured walls, hand cracks, and chimneys. 

The bouldering landscape incorporates a cave, an expansive roof section, a top-out boulder, and three high-ball areas, the newest of which takes boulderers 20 feet above our customized, three-foot padded flooring. 

We offer introductory belay, sport, and trad-climbing classes that will allow all climbers to make the shift from indoors to outdoors safely. Our newest additions, a café and Anti-Gravity Climbing Gear Store, will open in late fall. Come join the great community of friends and family who promote a fun and helping atmosphere. Enjoy, climb, and make new friends!