Author: Kelsey Shaw

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AAC Live your Dream Grants

by Ally Imbody, guest blogger
Mazama members Ally Imbody and Jon Skeen are excited to have received an American Alpine Club Live Your Dream grant to climb the Complete Exum Route of the Grand Teton this summer.

They are both currently in the Mazama Advanced Rock program and are thrilled to apply the traditional rock climbing skills they’ve been honing all spring in the alpine wilderness of Grand Teton National Park on one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. Ally and Jon join a long list of Mazamas who have been awarded AAC LYD grants over the years. Here’s what you need to know to take advantage of this opportunity in 2015:

  • The purpose of the Live Your Dream grant is to support and promote unforgettable experiences for individual climbers or small teams of all climbing disciplines to achieve new heights and to inspire others. You don’t have to be an elite climber or be putting up first ascents in remote locations. You just have to have an achievable climbing goal you’re working toward. 
  • The application period opens January 1st and closes March 1st.  Winners will be announced April 15.  All funds must be used within one year of application due date, so your planned climb should be completed by April 15, 2016.
  • Grants are distributed by region, and climbers living in Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, and Alaska are eligible to apply for the Northwest Region grant. However, your planned climb can be anywhere.
  • The grant is funded by The North Face and awards will vary depending on the prospective project, but typically fall in the $200 to $1,000 range.
  • Grants are based on the project’s potential to have a positive impact on the grantee’s life and experience of climbing. Tell a good story, and make sure that you are choosing something that represents a significant progression of your skills but it still realistic. Do your research!
  • The selection committee will consider the individual’s and/or team’s experience level, which must be appropriate for the proposed objective. Be honest- the application is being evaluated by experienced climbers who will be able to tell if you know your stuff. They don’t care how rad you are, they just want to know that you’re not getting in over your head. 
  • Membership in the American Alpine Club is not required, but for funds to be awarded, membership must be acquired. However, since the AAC and the Mazamas offer discounted joint memberships and are strong supporters of one another’s missions, you should hopefully already be a member!

It’s never too early to set goals and start planning for next year! Many of the climbs, skill-builders, and courses that you complete over the next year will help you prepare for even bigger adventures the following season. Good luck, and climb high!

Another Mazama team also received a Live Your Dream Grant. Team: Karin Mullendorf, Laura Pigion, and Candi Cook. Location: French Valley Torres del Paine Patagonia Route: Primary Objective: Aleta del Tiburon – The Shark’s Fin (1850m). Route Description: 11 pitches, Grade V, 5.9.  Secondary Objective: Eliana’s Chapel (Grade IV). Date: January 2015. (Photo of the area from Flickr)

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#RamsHeadRando14

by guest blogger Heidi Medema from The Mountain Shop

If you’re up at Mt. Hood Meadows this Saturday then you might see something amazing. Now, I don’t use this word lightly. You see, Saturday May 3, is the Second Annual Ram’s Head Randonee!

The Ram’s Head Randonee is an uphill-downhill ski race, complete with demos, a vendor village, prizes, and after party. It’s a day filled with good people, good fun, and it’s all for a good cause! Maybe you’ve heard of the Northwest Avalanche Center? They are the awesome folk that tell us when it’s safe to go adventuring in the PNW mountains, and they do so on a non-profit, shoestring budget. Proceeds from this event will go to support NWAC and all they do to keep us safe in the mountains.

This year the challenge has been cranked up a notch or two. The course now gains over 1,900 feet of vertical, and includes a boot pack section. Strap on your skis at the base of Stadium, then skin all the way up, around Ram’s Head, and back down.

If you’ve been interested in skinning, this will be a great opportunity to get involved and start learning. If you’re an experienced racer, this is your chance to shine! Although, we’ve had some pretty competitive types (Guy, ahem, ahem) talk some big talk.

If you don’t have your own AT set up, fear not! Your race registration includes free demos of the latest and greatest gear. Dynafit, La Sportiva, G3, Black Diamond, Scapra, and more will have their demo fleets for you to try. Don’t want to race, but still want to try out a sweet, lightweight setup? You can do that! For $20 you get full access to all the demos (plus lunch, beer, and two raffle tickets!).

Your $30 race registration also includes demos, lunch, beer, and two raffle tickets. The raffle is chalk full of great prizes from all our vendors! We’ve got skis, backpacks, jackets, subscriptions, a discounted AIARE L1 course, AAC memberships, full custom tune, full custom boot fit, and more! Plus, Mazamas has thrown in some sweet prizes in order to support NWAC.

If you’re a last minute kind of person you can sign up day of for $40. Registration at the mountain is 8am-9:30am.

The race starts at 10 a.m., and will be a hoot and a half to watch. Mixed in with the experienced, professional-looking racers, we also had total beginners and a few snowboarders. We even had one guy run the entire course! And he loved it!

Join us after the race for a ho-down, throw-down you won’t soon forget! Meadows will be grilling up some tasty food that you can wash down with an ice cold beer from everybody’s favorite brewery: Everybody’s Brewing. We’ll shower race winners with prizes, then shower all of you with prizes too! With the sheer quantity of donations we’ve received from vendors, everybody has a darn good chance of winning. Plus, all the proceeds from the raffle go to NWAC.

In order to prep you for the race, the Mountain Shop is hosting a pre-race clinic, Friday May 2. Join us for beer, snacks, and tips! CAMP will be here throwing down some knowledge, along with our very own Guy Trombley. These pre-race tips could be the difference between first and last place! Or, at the very least they will help you to look like a pro on the slopes, regardless of your experience level.

What it boils down to is this: The Ram’s Head Randonee has something for everyone, even YOU!

See you there!

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Lonnie Dupre Comes to Portland

Explorer and mountaineer Lonnie Dupre has obtained a list of firsts: first human-powered summer expedition of the North Pole, first human-powered circumnavigation of Greenland, and the first winter solo attempt on Denali.

May 30, he comes to the Mazama Mountaineering Center to share his expertise, adventures, and passion for lands of snow and ice. He will kick things off with an Extreme Cold Weather Expedition Class from 3-6 p.m., followed by the Pacific NW Premiere of his movie Cold Love at 7 p.m. Get Tickets

Cold Love Film Trailer

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Northwest Avalanche Center

NWAC has issued a special avalanche warning for the Mt. Hood area on April 24. 




What is NWAC?
The Northwest Avalanche Center (NWAC) is a collaborative effort between the US Forest Service Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center and the non-profit Friends of the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center.  The mission of NWAC is to save lives and reduce the impacts of avalanches on recreation, industry and transportation in the Cascade and Olympic Mountains of Washington and northern Oregon through mountain weather and avalanche forecasting, data collection and education.


NWAC typically ceases daily forecasts in early to mid-April each year. However, they will issue special forecasts when there are unusually hazardous spring avalanche conditions predicted.


Bookmark this site and make sure to check it before you head out to play in the mountains. 

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Print Your Own Northwest Forest Pass

Things have just gotten a little simpler for those who tend to forget about the need for a trailhead pass until the last minute. You can now purchase and print a Northwest Forest Pass day pass from the convenience of your home. Many Forest Service trailheads in Oregon and Washington require the NW Forest Pass in order to park. Day passes are $5 while an annual pass will run you $30. Purchase your pass here.

Looking for an Annual Pass instead? You can purchase online and have it mailed to you or you purchase at one of our local retailers, including: The Mountain Shop, Next Adventure, OMC, US Outdoor Store and REI. You can find a complete list here.

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Beacon Rock Breakdown

On April 26 at Beacon Rock State Park, the Mazamas and
the Beacon Rock Climbing Association (an Access Fund Affiliate Organization)
will host a fundraiser and group campout to support the making of a documentary
film about Beacon’s historic climbing scene.
The day of activities starts around 12 p.m. with food and
drinks, live music, and presentations about Local Rock Climbing Access and
Mazama Expedition Grants. By 5 p.m. we will start the film fundraiser with a
free gear raffle, never-before-seen footage, and discussion from the film
makers! Later in the evening and weather permitting we’ll check out the
“Mountains of the Universe” with a giant telescope! Finally, a late
night screening of El Capitan (film), an old school classic!

So what’s this Beacon Rock documentary film all about?

Last summer, Jeff Thomas, Sean O’Connor, Andy Maser and
Sean Brown filmed interviews of Beacon Rock legends such as long-time Mazama
George Cummings! We also filmed climbers Mark Hudon (think El Cap stone master)
and John Fine sending Dods Jam – the stellar multi-pitch crack system on
Beacon’s south face. Together the footage begins telling the history of the
route which was first climbed in 1961.
To continue the vertical visual masterpiece of
storytelling, we decided to capture the story of the Spike Route (first ascent
1901) and the Southeast Corner (FA 1954).
Our script writer, Jule Gilfillan has pieced the story
together and our fundraising efforts are ramping up in order to bring you an
amazing documentary about a nationally significant climbing area in our own
backyard! This is a Mazama story. This is your story!
So whether or not you climb at Beacon or desire to ascend
the andesite monolith someday, join us for a day of fun and adventure!
Stop by or stay the night! Volunteers camp for free 😉
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Special Discounts – April

Mazama members have standard discounts that are effective year round, but sometimes local and national retailers offer our members special, limited time discounts. Take advantage of them while they last.

Mountain Hardwear

30% off your entire purchase in the Portland store through April 30.

(valid only with coupon from the April Bulletin & your membership sticker)
10% off flashpass through April 30
(present your membership sticker when purchasing)
40% off an annual subscription
(go to the member section of the website for the code – this offer does not expire)
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Conditions Report – Illumination Rock

Illumination Rock NW Aspect.

by Brad Farra

Bluebird day on Mt. Hood today. I Walked the tools up to I-rock. Looked at the routes on the NW face and March Madness. I-rock is in full rime condition. It would have gone, but we were getting bombarded and it was likely to get worse with the warmth and wind. March Madness is ‘in’. Stiff WI5 condition with plentiful small weak chandeliers. Would not have protected well. If you’re going to be on Mt. Hood tomorrow (April 12), get it done early. Lots of rime ice still being shed.


March Madness is pretty fat and the condition may improve if we can get some cold temps up there. 


 March Madness. Rim ice on NW Illumination Rock. Marcus traversing below NW face of I-rock.


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So You Want to Go Climbing?


It’s April and that means it’s time to start thinking about summer climbing. The summer climb schedule is posted now and climb leaders will continue to add climbs throughout the summer months. Now that you’ve perused the schedule, what does it take to get on a climb?

  1. You need an Application for Climb Card, more commonly referred to as a Climb Card. Cards are $20 for members and $30 for nonmembers. You can order online, or just stop by the MMC and pick some up. 
  2. Decide where you want to climb. 
    • Never Ever: You’ve never been to the top of a mountain before? Start with our Hike to the Summit climbs (you’ll notice a code (H) next to the grade). South Sister and Mt. St. Helens are two great intro climbs.
    • Beginner: Are you new to climbing? Just getting the hang of crampons and ropes? Middle Sister, Unicorn Peak, Mt. Thielsen, Mt. Stone, Pinnacle Peak, and Mt. Adams are all perfect beginner climbs to put some of those skills to use without too high of a commitment level.
    • Intermediate: You’ve learned the skills and now you need an opportunity to put them to use. Look to the C level climbs – Leuthold Couloir on Mt. Hood, the South Ridge on Jefferson, The Tooth, and Frostbite Ridge on Glacier Peak will give you a chance to test your skills and get a bit more technical.
    • Advanced: You’ve got all the skills and have climbed a bunch. What a minute, why aren’t you a Mazama climb leader leading your own climbs? Join in the fun on Sharkfin Tower, the North Ridge of Mt. Baker, the West Ridge of Stuart, the North Face of Vesper, or Forbidden Peak. You should find all of these routes to be a fun challenge.
  3. Mail your climb card to the climb leader (not to the MMC!), making sure to fill it out completely including self-addressing the return card and including a stamp. The first day to mail them is April 15 – mailing cards on this date gives you the best chance of getting accepted.
  4. Train: Climbing is a much more enjoyable experience if you are in shape. Head out to the gorge, take to your local running trails, hit the gym – whatever you do, just make sure you are fit enough for the climb.
That’s all there is to it. Happy climbing!