Joe, who will turn 80 in July, has been active with the Mazamas since the late 70’s. He still leads at least one or two climbs each year and is set to refresh his Mountaineering First Aid skills with the Mazamas in the fall. Below he shares his history with the organization:
Growing up in Portland, views of Mt Hood and Mount St. Helens were a constant and instilled a latent desire to climb those puppies. However, my parents were from East Texas and didn’t have much of an outdoor, much less, climbing tradition. I spent many hours on our farm in Sunnyside wandering through the forest and spent the summer after my senior year in high school on a forest fire crew, but my outdoor skill set was not very developed.
In 1977, when I ended a 10-year active-duty stint with the US Navy and moved back to Portland, I was focused on signing-up for the Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), which I completed in 1978. That spring I climbed Mt. Hood and became a Mazama member. That summer I also climbed Mount St. Helens, and Middle and South Sister. (My second Hood climb with the Mazamas was on May 18, 1980, and we were able to observe the eruption of Mount St. Helens from the summit.)
The next 10 years were mostly filled with family responsibilities: US Navy Reserve weekends, work as a marketing manager at Tektronix, and a slow slog to complete a computer engineering degree at the University of Portland. I was able to get in two to four climbs a year and received the Guardian Peaks Award in 1982. For a couple of years, I had a three-week teaching gig at the US Navy Intelligence School in Denver, CO and was able to hook-up with the Colorado Mountaineering Club to do some climbs with them.
In December 1988, I attended my last Navy Reserve drill weekend and finished my engineering degree in April 1989. I immediately signed up for Intermediate Climbing School (ICS). I started going on more climbs, received the Oregon Cascades Award in 1989, started helping with Basic Climbing School, was selected as a climb leader in 1991, and received the 16 NW peaks award in 1992. This was also about the time I became infected with the State Highpointing bug.
I led probably 15 BCEP sessions and was on the Climbing Committee in 1994 and 1995. I was the assistant ICS coordinator in 1994 and lead in 1995. I also wrote and distributed, by mail, the Climb Leader Newsletter and was the Climb schedule coordinator. One of my strong inputs on CC was the creation of a Climb Leader Development Program to ensure that Mazama climb leaders had a full set of verified skills to enhance climb safety. In May 1994, I and two other Mazamas made it up to 16,000 feet on Denali but had to back off due to one of the party members being unable to continue. Being my first high-altitude climb, this was a massive learning experience. In 1995, I started assisting Doug Wilson in joint climbs with the Toyama Mountaineering Club in Japan. They climbed with us several times, and we were able to go to Japan and climb with them. A very special experience!
The Mazamas were slow, even resistant to transition to the digital age—no email or webpage. In the mid-90’s, I lobbied for a FAX machine, and it was reluctantly finally approved. Now we could FAX stuff to the office and not have to drive down or mail it. I grew increasingly frustrated with how hard it was to schedule climbs, file climb reports, and generally communicate anything with the Mazama office. I became chair of the Financial Affairs Committee in 1998 and focused on ways to be more efficient in tracking finances. We had one staff member, the Secretary, who finally got a computer running MS-DOS, and was entering all the financial information into Lotus 123.
In 1998, I was nominated and elected to the Executive Council through 2001, and served as Membership Secretary, Treasurer, and Vice-President. While many people were involved and worked hard to implement the following initiatives, I provided strong input and worked on implementation:
- Establish the position of Executive Director, in addition to Board Secretary.
- Hire an individual with strong computer and web development skills to fill the Board Secretary position. I interviewed John Godino and recommended he be hired.
- Build a Mazama website and email newsletters
- Conduct a member survey to better determine demographics and obtain input for the future direction of the organization.
- As Treasurer, I implemented an actual budgeting process and pushed a dues increase to offset ongoing deficits.
- Helped smooth over relations between the Lodge managers and the Lodge Committee, as well as help develop a positions and responsibilities document for the Lodge Committee.
- Worked with Peter Green and Ian Wade to write an accident report, analyze Mazama activities, and develop risk management procedures.
- Established that we needed to move from our leased space on NW 19th.
In 1998, I retired from Tektronix and built an outdoor adventure company, Oregon Peak Adventures. We climbed, led hikes and multiday backpacks, and taught outdoor skills classes through PCC and the metro Park & Recs and did a couple of international trips a year. I was unable to lead BCEP classes or many Mazama climbs and run my business, but still stayed involved with the organization. In 2013, I did my last company trip. In 2000, I led an outing to Kilimanjaro and in 2013 led a trip, assisted by Eugene Lewins, to China and Tibet.
I still led a few climbs each year and was awarded the #16 Leuthold Award in 2004 and the #5 Terry Becker Award in 2009. I continued to lead snowshoe, XC skiing, and hikes as well.
Over the years, I led Outings to complete the Oregon Coast Trail, backpack the Oregon section of the Pacific Crest Trail, led climbs to summit all 31 of the Oregon peaks over 9,000 feet, and all the Oregon County Highpoints. In 2008, I summitted Mt. Marcy in New York for my 49th state highpoint. I was Chair of the Outings Committee for three years.
I have slowed down in my dotage (I turn 80 in July), but I am still a qualified e-level climb leader (at least when I complete the MFA session in November). My current project is to climb the 100 highest peaks in Oregon (I am up to 80) and I try to lead a couple of climbs a year on the remaining peaks.
The Mazamas have been a constant focus of my life since 1978, and I have made many friends and have many memorable experiences because of my association with the organization. I look forward to maintaining my membership and engaging in further adventures.
Name: Joe Whittington
Pronouns: He/Him
Year Joined Mazamas: 1978
Present-day outdoor activities: Slow – climbing, hiking, snowshoeing, and skiing.
What’s your earliest outdoor memory? Wandering around the forest on our farm and adjacent property.
How did you first hear about the Mazamas, and what prompted you to engage with the organization? I believe I heard about the Mazamas during my senior year at Portland State in 1966 just prior to going on active duty with the Navy.
As more people seek to recreate outdoors, what advice would you offer them? Find joy in having a well-conditioned body and find mentors who are willing and pleased to teach you the skills you need to enjoy the activities.
What activities/situations/people most inspire you? I read the book, Annapurna, by Maurice Herzog and it blew my mind. I had many Mazama members who mentored and trained me, and I have met many world-class climbers who have inspired me as well.
What is your favorite book/movie/TV show/social media account that you follow and why? Pick one. I read a lot, but am a huge fan of Craig Johnson and his Longmire series.
What’s on your adventure bucket list? Climbing as many of the 100 highest peaks in Oregon while I still am able.